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The science of bio-based alkanes in cosmetics

VG Chem Consulting and Enviro-Stratégies highlight the superiority of conventional chemistry compared to synthetic biology in relation to bio-based alkanes

ABSTRACT In recent years, bio-based alkanes obtained from vegetable oils or sugar, respectively by processes of conventional chemistry and by synthetic biology implemented from genetically modified microorganisms, have appeared on the market. An examination of the production yields and the results of lifecycle analyses highlight the great superiority of conventional chemistry compared to synthetic biology, which ultimately proves to be of low productivity and high environmental impact, far from being in phase with the societal and environmental requirements of the cosmetics industry.

Alkanes of fossil origin have been used in cosmetic products for many years. Indeed, many skin care, hair care or even make-up products contain isododecane, isohexadecane and purified petroleum cuts (e.g. Isopar isoparaffins).1 These petrochemical alkanes are multifunctional compounds with interesting physical and sensory properties: emollient, moisturizing properties, non-greasy and silky feel, excellent skin tolerance, great chemical stability.2 In addition, their price is extremely competitive.

However, they also have their drawbacks. They are derived from non-renewable fossil raw materials, generating greenhouse gases as they are obtained by hydrocracking petroleum. On the other hand, they are far from being totally biodegradable, leading to pollution of water, air and soil. Some of these alkanes also have a synthetic hydrocarbon odour that must be masked in cosmetic formulations by using masking and odorant substances, which make the formulations more complex and can lead to skin tolerance problems.

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Upcoming Events

in-cosmetics Global

Paris Expo Porte de Versailles
16th – 18th April 2024

NYSCC Suppliers' Day 2024

Javits Center, New York
1st - 2nd May 2024

9th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference

Royal College of Physicians, London
25th - 26th June 2024

in-cosmetics Korea 2024

Hall C, Coex, Seoul, South Korea
24th - 26th July 2024

in-cosmetics Latin America 2024

São Paulo, Brazil
25th - 26th September 2024

IFSCC 2024

Recanto das Cataratas Thermas Resort, Iguazu Falls, Brazil
14th - 17th October 2024

Access the latest issue of Personal Care Magazine on your mobile device together with an archive of back issues.

Download the FREE Personal Care Magazine app from your device's App store

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