Combating pigmentation disorders

Sederma has launched a new ingredient, O.D.A.white, to treat skin pigmentation disorders such as freckles, melasma, hyperpigmentation and the general dark colour of certain skin types.

The enzyme tyrosinase is a good target for this interference as it seems to be the limiting factor of the rate of melanogenesis. Many ingredients marketed for skin lightening are essentially conceived as an inhibitor of this tyrosinase, the company says.

O.D.A.white appeared as a good candidate for effecting melanin synthesis decrease via another, even further upstream, mechanism. Sederma showed that O.D.A.white does not mediate melanin synthesis reduction by a direct inhibition of tyrosinase but can inhibit the whole melanin synthesis pathway from the melanocyte nucleus by targeting the tyrosinase gene via the PPARg complex.

In vitro studies showed that, in the presence of O.D.A.white, mRNA tyrosinase and tyrosinase quantities decrease by 50%, producing a decrease of the pigmentation by 44%.

A clinical study was carried out on a total of 21 Chinese panellists, with twice daily random applications of 1% O.D.A.white against arbutin on the forearm for 8 weeks followed by a 4-week regression period. It has shown spectacular skin brightening effects, it is stated. The melanin synthesis begins to decrease after application, reached -22% after 8 weeks for the majority (76%) of the panel and led to an increase of the skin clarity up to 28%. This effect is reversible.

  • Sederma has formulated a new ingredient to help people aged 60 and over to fortify and restructure thin and fragile skin. The new ingredient, Essenskin, is a complementary source of calcium and essential amino acids and is especially designed to re-boost cell metabolism and protein synthesis, rebalance ion flow and recreate the calcium gradient in order to regulate the barrier homeostasis and the epidermal differentiation.

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