Laura Busata, Cosmetics R&D Senior Specialist led a session on ‘How to formulate ocean and reef friendly suncare products while preserving their efficacy’ at the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit last month. In her talk she focused on three main key points: the real issues for the marine environment; the impacts of sunscreens on the sea and the studies that have been carried out to investigate this topic; and how to formulate a “sea-friendly” sun care product, preserving its efficacy and safety. Before the event, Personal Care spoke with Laura to find out more:
The industry is receiving mixed messages regarding the impact of suncare products on reefs, etc. What does the latest evidence suggest?
A lot of studies have been undertaken on this topic. For now, we do know that the removal of some chemicals would be positively beneficial to the ocean. However, the experiments carried out so far have used concentrations of UV filters significantly higher than what is generally found in the marine environment. Further research is thus needed before firm conclusions can be reached.
Is there a particular type of active that is known to cause no issues in suncare formulations?
As formulators, we have to take into account that a complete elimination of the environmental impact of sunscreen is not possible. Among the UV filters, the coated inorganic filters seem to be the ones with a lower impact on coral reefs.
How important is reducing wash-off for protecting these environments?
It’s very important. The extremely watery textures are of course very pleasant on the skin, but they have a very high wash-off probability. Formulating water-resistant or very water-resistant products is the more direct and efficient way to reduce the release of sunscreen products in seawaters.
What other factors need to be considered?
For example, reducing the levels of UV filters would be a start toward a solution. This could be achieved through the use of boosters to enhance protection without increasing the percentage of filters present in the formula.
However, as formulators, we have a chance to develop new cutting-edge sunscreen products, without neglecting the efficacy and safety that characterize this type of product.
