Engineering natural active ingredients

Silab creates and manufactures efficacyproven active ingredients from natural raw materials. As efficacy, safety and stability are the hallmarks of each Silab development, all the inputs are controlled from the R&D to the manufacture in situ. To meet these requirements, an essential step, settled in Silab’s DNA, is the mastery of nature combined with a perfect in-house control of the extraction and purification process inspired by agro-food technologies.

 With a 30-year experience, the company has thus developed a solid expertise in enzymatic bioengineering and owns an enzymatic toolbox to isolate novel molecular structures from natural raw materials. Silab’s expertise was illustrated through the example of Recoverine®, an eco-designed active ingredient that is capable of stimulating epidermal renewal to ensure a functional and effective cutaneous barrier. 

A concept inspired by the cell wall architecture

The cohesion of the skin barrier is ensured by lipids of the stratum corneum (SC) and cadherins, glycoproteins at the cell surface involved in cell-cell interactions1 (Fig 1a). In order to develop a cosmetic active ingredient able to maximize the repair potential of the barrier function, Silab’s research team focused its supply on the chestnut, a natural raw material rich in pectin polymers. Indeed, these molecular structures are closely associated with polysaccharides, responsible for the cohesion and integrity in plant cell walls2 (Figure 1b). 

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