Skin lightening via natural botanical oily composition

For this purpose, a broad study was performed to identify vegetable oils and botanical extracts, in order to produce a lipid solution showing skin whitening, hydrating and nourishing activities. The product obtained using selected ingredients was subsequently submitted to performance assessment, safety assays and physico-chemical characterisation. Efficacy trials evaluated the whitening activity of the product under ex vivoconditions after 4 doses, at 100% concentration, using reconstructed human epidermis and displaying a 47% reduction of melanin quantity versus the negative control. Safety was proved by dermatological assays. Key parameters as density, viscosity, acidity, peroxide and saponification values were determined, fatty composition analysed by gas chromatography, and oxidative stability tested by Rancimat method, revealing full suitability for cosmetic use.

Melanin is the natural pigment of human skin. Tyrosinase is responsible for melanisation in plants and animals, which leads to – sometimes undesirable – browning. Tyrosinase is a melanogenic copper-containing enzyme that catalyses the transformation of tyrosine to dopaquinone, eventually leading to melanin secretion and subsequent accumulation in skin cells.1, 2

Effects of UV radiation on the skin are both beneficial and harmful. It induces synthesis of vitamin D, killing of pathogens and treating disorders like psoriasis. On the other hand, they cause photoageing and skin cancer by making alterations at the cellular level.3 The exposure of UV radiation on the skin generates oxidative stress resulting in structural and functional changes in the epidermis and biomolecules present within the cell.