A bright ‘star’ in the anti-acne universe

Moreover, due to its high diffusion in the population and to its significant morbidity, it causes both physically and psychologically side-effects on patients, in terms of scarring, depression, anxiety and low self-esteem.1 Acne vulgarisis an inflammatory disorder in which many agents can act as triggers: androgens, drugs, genetic factors, regulating neuropeptides and environmental factors, such as pollution and UV radiation. Regardless of the causes, however, in all the patients affected by Acne vulgaristhe following symptoms have been observed: an excessive sebum production, an excessive keratosis of excretory ducts - and the consequent transition from microcomedones to comedones- , the development of bacterial flora (especially Propionibacterium acnes) and the release of inflammatory mediators in the skin.2 Given these manifestations, Star Anise Extract is the new active ingredient able to provide an effective and complete activity on all the symptoms associated to an acne-prone skin. With 100% natural origin, it is characterised by a high value of shikimic acid (≥ 15% w/w). 

More than food

Illicium verumHooker is an aromatic evergreen tree bearing purple-red flowers and anise-scented star-shaped fruit. It grows almost exclusively between the southwest of China and northeast of Vietnam. It belongs to the family of Illiciaceae, whose name derives from the Latin illicere, i.e. allure, due to their production of volatile aromatic compounds responsible for the characteristic sweet and attractive fragrance. While in Europe the dried Illicium verumfruit (star anise) was introduced only in the 17th century in order to replace the indigenous Pimpinella anisum(aniseed) in the preparation of commercial drinks, in China it has a long history as a spice and a medicine. In fact, the air-dried star anise was already reported in the Bencao Gangmu, a Chinese herbology volume dating back to Ming dynasty (Li, 1596), and it is still indicated in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia as a medicine for the treatment of abdominal colic, vomiting, abdomen and lower back pain. Different formulations are used, including crude drug, powders and essential oils.3 Being known for its many benefits as a food source, star anise is now being investigated also as a natural ingredient for cosmetics, with many properties for skin health. In its extracts and essential oils, it is possible to identify the presence of several beneficial substances for skin, such as anethole, triterpenes, sesquiterpenes, flavonoids, and polyphenols, with high antioxidant, antiinflammatory and antimicrobial activities.4, 5, 6 Moreover, Illicium verumfruit is the industrial source of shikimic acid, that is the primary ingredient in the anti-flu drug Oseltamivir phosphate and actually used as precursor for the synthesis of many chemical substances for pharmaceutical, chemical, and cosmetic industries.7 The interesting variety of active components which Illicium verumis rich in and the evidence of its different activities have therefore made it a perfect starting ingredient to counteract the clinical manifestations of a widespread pathology such as acne.