The peptide hormone beta-endorphin and the steroid hormone dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) play important roles in the skin. The fact that they are also synthesised locally in the skin makes them interesting targets for cosmetic ingredients.
An extract of monk’s pepper (Vitex agnus-castus) was found to perform like beta-endorphin and to stimulate the synthesis of DHEA. In a clinical study, the extract showed significant effects on skin elasticity and density.
DHEA is the precursor for both sex hormones, the female oestrogen as well as the male ones, testosterone and dihydrotestosterone. Circulating DHEA is mainly produced by the adrenal glands. Production is highest when we are in our thirties but then starts to decline leading to the so called ‘adrenopause’ which occurs in both sexes. In the peripheral tissues, DHEA is transformed to the final sex hormones, depending on the tissue’s needs. Oestrogen plays a very important role in skin health and skin ageing. It stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and inhibits the breakdown of the existing fibres. Declining oestrogen levels therefore result in laxity of the skin and a decreased general skin tonicity which leads to sagging and wrinkles. In men, the decrease of the testosterone level results at the skin level in a loss of skin density and in lower elasticity. For a couple of years it has been known that the skin not only represents a target for circulating DHEA, oestrogen, and testosterone but has itself the capacity to produce from the lipid precursor cholesterol the steroid hormone DHEA and all the final sex steroids.1, 2
Beta-endorphin is a neuropeptide because it is mainly produced in the neurons of the central and peripheral nervous system. Beta-endorphin messengers are agonists of the mu opioid receptor and are used to regulate reactions to stress and pain as well as feelings of euphoria. In the skin the beta-endorphinmu opioid receptor system is involved in nociception and reactions to inflammation. Beta-endorphin and the mu opioid receptor were found to be expressed in the skin not only in sensory neurons but also in keratinocytes, fibroblasts as well as melanocytes.3, 4, 5 There are scientific publications demonstrating a role of beta-endorphin and its receptor in wound healing and skin regeneration.6
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