Achieving transformative, K-Beauty inspired textures

2017 continues to see a rise in the desire for textures used within Korean-inspired Beauty (K-Beauty), including transformative textures, across Europe. Transformative textures are sensory effects that change during product application or over a short subsequent period of time.

 Such changes can include temperature, colour, or perceived structural changes to the formulation. Another format popular in Asia and attracting increasing interest in Europe is so-called ‘water drop’ emulsions, which transition during application to release water droplets and provide a feeling of immediate hydration. Powder to foam, oil to foam, and bubbling skin products are all transitional effects we are currently seeing increasing interest in.

There are many different textures and formats inspired by K-Beauty that are also gaining traction in Europe. Sticks for cleansing (including makeup removal) offer a change from conventional formats, and we are also seeing an influx of mists and milks being used across many applications. The ‘no makeup effect’ is a popular yet difficult-to-achieve concept, whereby an incredibly light coverage of pigment is used to achieve a flawless, very natural finish, from very fluid (almost milk-like) liquids. Transparent formulations and light formulations in colour cosmetics and sun protection are other challenging concepts attracting good market interest.

An overriding theme from K-Beauty and related textural trends at the moment is a move to lighter formats and sensory effects across the board, leading to many formulation challenges. Achieving many of the novel textures and related structures requires ingredient considerations across the entire formulation from emulsifiers, thickeners, emollients, sensory powders, and active ingredients. Formulations containing UV filters can be particularly challenging when it comes to achieving lighter sensory effects while retaining Sun Protection Factor (SPF) performance and stability. With a focus on water-based formulations and watery effects, including to allow layering of products in detailed regimes, ingredient choice takes great care to achieve the right balance. 

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