Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders in emulsions

 The powders are ingredients increasingly used in the formulation of cosmetic products for the sensory benefits they provide, as well as unique textures, optical effects, flow, sebum and oil absorbency, thickening properties. While representing a specific category in makeup / colour cosmetics, in the skin care segment for instance the powders improve the performance and enhance the skin’s feel. 

Currently there is limited research assessing the impact of powder on formulation. In the field of cosmetic powders, research5 has been carried out on the perceived skin-feel of powders in a suspension (Nylon 12 and PMMA). Brenntagin collaboration with Ecole de Biologie Industrielle of Cergy Pontoise (EBI, France), evaluated the influence of the presence of the powders on the sensorial properties of the formulated products, and developed a referential for sensory characterisation of pure powders as well as formulations which contain them, based on 12 cosmetic powders with different chemicalnatures. The selected attributes (such as cushion effect, smoothness, spreadability) were then used for performing a quantitative descriptive profile of the powders as well as a formulated emulsion containing them.

The lexicon has been established through a consensus approach of the panel (11 expert panellists), and contains definitions, assessment protocols and provides reference products. Eight attributesthat allow the evaluation of the powders in 4 phases have been evaluated: the appearance, the pickup, the application,the after-feel. These same attributes are used to evaluate the performance of the emulsion with and without the powder, this helps to assess the contribution of powders on the sensory specificities of the emulsion.