It is known that formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin, ceramides, in particular, can enhance the restoration of an impaired barrier function. However, ceramides are highly hydrophobic and tend to crystallise and aggregate, resulting in gelation in cosmetic formulations.
Therefore, a specific formulation is required in order to overcome such limitations and maximise the effects of ceramides on the skin.
Water dispersible powder type ceramide formula (Hydroceramide50 or Hydroceramide50S) containing above 45% of ceramide 3 was developed using Doosan’s advanced Solid Lipid Particulation (SLP) technology. By controlling the size of ceramides ranging between 200 nm~250 nm, which is free of nano-safety issues and without using organic solvents and large amounts of harsh surfactants, we could obtain water dispersible ceramide 3 powder formula with an increased surface area and improved solubility.
In our study, the characteristics and effects of Hydroceramide on skin had been studied in comparison with conventional ceramide 3. They were structurally and morphologically characterised by TEM, CryoTEM, and differential scanning calorimetry. Particle size distribution and changes of viscosity during the storage after their application into the emulsion were also investigated. There was no significant increase in viscosity, and gelation phenomena, one of the problems in application of conventional ceramide 3, was also diminished noticeably. In particular, Hydroceramide50 and Hydroceramide50S could be applied translucently into the essence and toner and it could be stably dispersed for more than a year as well.
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