Top beauty specialists tackle formulation challenges

Novel techniques that promise to address some of the most challenging formulation issues burdening the industry are set to be unveiled at in-cosmetics Asia this year.

Highly skilled experts from leading companies and consultancies will share their secrets to emulsion stability, product customisation, K-beauty and formulating with paraben-free preservatives in a series of hands-on demonstrations taking place at the exhibition’s Formulation Lab from 8-10 November 2016. 

Designed for those working in R&D and product development, the three-day schedule will feature practical training sessions from industry heavyweights including Cosphatec GmbH, Croda Asia Pacific and Merck among others. Technical experts will offer theoretical and practical insights that will enable cosmetic manufacturers to bring innovations to market. 

Belinda Carli, director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, who oversees the programme and will present a number of sessions, commented: “Emulsion stability is just one topic that will be covered in a number of sessions. Combining materials that are not easily compatible is a challenge in any industry, but when the end result is defined by its sensory, aesthetic, performance and application capabilities, it is particularly important. The Formulation Lab is a hugely valuable platform for manufactures as it gives them one-to-one contact with key suppliers, allowing them to test the product and ask questions rather than simply working from an information sheet.”


Achieving emulsion stability
In order to create an emulsion that remains stable for a long enough time, it is essential to overcome the interfacial tension between the two phases. In her sessions at the Formulation Lab, Belinda Carli will explain how manufacturers can achieve long-term emulsion stability thanks to PIT and HIP Emulsions. Working with these can result in a stable, aesthetically and sensory pleasing product on application and cost-savings through reduced processing times, temperatures and cooling.  

Paraben-free formulations
Parabens are the most widely-used preservatives in the cosmetics industry, however, negative information circulating the internet is seeing a growing number of consumers beginning to avoid them. As a result, formulators are turning to alternative systems that deliver the same long-term benefits. In his presentation ‘The potential of Cosphaderm thickeners, hyaluronic acids and paraben-free preservative systems’, Dr Carsten Dietz from Cosphatec GmbH will demonstrate how to formulate without parabens, using a water-soluble liquid and low-cost preservative blends.  

Creating a K-beauty cosmetics kit

K-beauty is big-business in Asia and around the world. In 2015, Korea exported more than US$1.85bn cosmetics goods, a new high according to the Korea Customs Service. In light of this dynamic trend, Pradeep Tendulkar from Croda Asia Pacific will present an interactive lab session on K Beauty Buzz, Cleansing Oils and Scalp Essentials, looking at cosmetic raw materials that are essential to cope with the fast pace of product development. In addition, he will also look at formulating a lightweight Scalp Essence and an Anti-Pollution Cleansing Oil which will showcase the versatility of the company’s ingredients in formulating different formats and textures.

Tailored beauty for diverse complexions
Product customisation is an evolving trend in the Asia Pacific region. Consumers expect simple personalised beauty solutions that have been tailored to their requirements and importantly, are affordable. In her session ‘Tailored beauty for diverse complexions’, Sherry Wu from Merck will highlight how manufacturers can tap into this lucrative area by aiding in the development of multi-functional products, where the formula combines primary benefits from three different categories – suncare, skin care and colour cosmetics. 

Other formulation challenges that will be covered in the Lab include a presentation by Nikko Chemicals on MEGURI: water break ocean gel; a session by Lipoid Kosmetik on How to encapsulate HerbaProtect NOX into a liposomal gel; and a demonstration by Ashland Specialty Ingredients on Gentle Exfoliating Body Wash with Volcanic Beads.

The in-cosmetics Asia Formulation Lab features a purpose-built, fully-functioning lab. The practical training sessions are free to attend, but are only open to R&D professionals from personal care product manufacturers. For more information, visit http://www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/formulationlab.

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