in-cosmetics Asia review

Personal Care magazine was at in-cosmetics and struggled to keep up with demand for copies of the latest issue. Our apologies if you came to the stand after we had run out. You must be quicker next time!
Over the course of the three days, the organisers reported attracting 6,007 unique visitors from across Asia and beyond – a 16 per cent increase on 2012 – making it a record-breaking show.

Visitors travelled from all over the globe, with Malaysia, China and South Korea the top three represented countries outside Thailand. With 2,285 overseas visitors, international attendees accounted for 38 per cent of the total attendance, an increase of 18 per cent compared to 2012.

As the region’s only personal care ingredients exhibition with a pan-Asian focus, in-cosmetics Asia 2013 provided visitors with the opportunity to meet more than 360 suppliers from 30 countries, source ingredients and discover over 240 new products during the course of the three-day event.

More Marketing Trends Presentations, Workshops and Innovation Seminars than ever before, as well as a new Packaging Zone, Country Focus and Product Trails meant visitors were able to gain exclusive insights, improve their knowledge and enhance their technical skills.

The new Korea Country Focus proved a popular attraction with visitors able to learn about this dynamic market, which grew 9.1 per cent in 2012. An interactive display feature included selected Korean ingredients as well as finished products selected by Florence Bernardin, a leading authority on Korean cosmetic products, where visitors were able to understand the influence this market is having globally. Seminars in the Marketing Trends Theatre highlighted areas where brand owners and manufacturers can leverage trends coming out of South Korea, while a Product Trail led visitors to exhibitor stands where they could discover innovative ingredients. The Korea pavilion also allowed visitors to target their approach and meet with more Korean suppliers than ever before.

The Innovation Zone was a hub of activity where visitors could see 37 ingredient launches from the six months leading up to the show and test 22 exclusive formulations while Mintel ran live demonstrations on the theme of segmentation by generation, with cosmetics targeted at different age groups.

On the second night of the show, the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards that recognise scientific prowess were presented, with Gold going to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics for its Elix-IR ingredient, which is the first botanical active designed to fight Infra’aging (infrared-induced skin ageing). Silver awarded to Lipotec for its Source of Youth Cream with Juvefoxo peptide, while Schülke & Mayr scooped Bronze for sensiva PA 3, a nature-inspired multifunctional cosmetic additive that offers protection for leave-on, wet-wipe and sensitive applications.

C&T also presented its (industry-wide) R&D Awards-Asia, giving Sederma Best New Ingredient Award for Beautifeye, an active ingredient that targets sagging of the upper eyelids, while P&G was awarded the Most Creative Application Award for its SK-II Stempower Essence that boosts skin’s inner resilience for bouncy looking skin with less visible pores.

Sederma’s award-winning ingredient, Beautifeye, offers a global eye contour treatment, firstly by strengthening the dermal structure and increasing its contractile properties, it lifts the fold of the eyelid at the top and lessens the crow’s feet wrinkles on the sides. Secondly, it consolidates the microvascular network and reduces pigment accumulation in order to fade the dark circles and diminish puffiness under the eyes.

The Educational Programme moved up a gear this year, with more in-depth analysis of markets, trends and formulation techniques than in previous years. The Marketing Trends Presentations were often standing room only, with visitors able to hear unique insights into topics as diverse as consumer segmentation, anti-ageing, cosmeceuticals, digital marketing and ethnic beauty, as well as market information on Japan and Brazil to help shape marketing campaigns. Workshops provided practical advice on hot topics including natural ingredient formulation, anti-ageing breakthroughs and tips on exporting to the US, while exhibitor-led Innovation Seminars demonstrated the breadth of innovation from exhibitors at the show.

New Product Trails were also met with resounding success, directing visitors to the most forward-thinking products in each category – anti-acne, anti-ageing and skin whitening – and allowing exhibitors to gain more exposure.

Commenting on the success of this year’s show, Sarah Gibson, exhibition director for in-cosmetics Asia said: “Now in its sixth year, in-cosmetics Asia has created a pan-Asian personal care community where the industry comes together both online and face-to-face at the show. This year’s event was another vibrant occasion with the quality of visitors higher than ever before, particularly from Japan and China, with senior level representatives from major manufacturers in attendance. We are already looking forward to the 2014 show and with exhibitor re-bookings through the roof, we’re sure it will prove yet another exciting instalment.”

The exhibition
The Korean country focus brought a wealth of technological expertise to the exhibition, and one of the companies to make up part of the Korean contingent was Biospectrum.  A new product from Biospectrum was Dongboaek Tsubaki Oil, a natural soothing and anti-wrinkle ingredient. Made from Camellia japonica (rose of winter), which is called dongbaek in Korea and tsubaki in Japan, the oil is a strong antioxidant and has high ORAC levels.

For its anti-wrinkle effect the oil induces type I procollagen production and inhibits TNF α-induced MMP-1 activation, while anti-inflammatory properties are thanks to its inhibition of LPS-induced nitric oxide production.

Dongbaek Oil is highly effective for mature skin, sensitive skin and dry skin, offering antioxidant, anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle and moisturising effects. 

Another Korean company at the exhibition was Natural Solution, whose ingredients include Oriental Tea Complex. This is a plant complex containing extracts from 6 types of tea popular in Asia: persimmon leaf, cinnamon bark, Japanese mugwort leaf, Chrysanthemum indicum flowers, Chinese quince fruit and green tea leaf. It is processed by low temperature ultrasonic extraction method to prevent the destruction of unstable active compounds. Oriental Tea Complex demonstrates antioxidant and anti-wrinkle efficacies both in vitro and in vivo.

Croda introduced Volarest FL to the Asia marketplace at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia. Volarest FL is a unique polymer providing benefits for both the consumer and formulator. Volarest FL delivers controlled, targeted delivery from sprayable emulsions, novel textures that excite the user and the weightless suspension of emollients and beads in low viscosity fluids. The new ingredient taps in to the trend for user convenience as well as for full body moisturising.

DSM was featuring its Elhebin PF product at in-cosmetics Asia. Elhibin PF is a bioactive that counteracts the damaging effects of elastase - helping to promote youthful elastic skin conditions and combat the ageing process. Elhibin PF is a carefully purified soy protein complex that inhibits leukocyte elastase activity and thus protects elastic fibres in the papillary dermis.

Greentech attended in-cosmetics Asia and was promoting its line of extracts called Phytelenes. They are fluid hydroglycolic extracts specially designed and which contain the ‘totum’ of each plant, combining the main constituents of the plant in a synergetic, well-balanced and stabilised form. The manufacturing process has been designed to get the best possible reproducibility in terms of the physic-chemical specifications and cosmetic performance.

Japanese ingredient manufacturer Ichimaru Pharcos was on hand to discuss its MandarinClear product with visitors to the exhibition. The stratum corneum, which is made up of corneocytes, lets light through that determines the brightness of the skin. When the surface of corneocytes is rough, the skin looks dull, as if it is frosted glass. MandarinClear smoothes the skin’s surface by making each epidermal cell firmer. It also makes the skin look clear as though it radiates from within by increasing the amount of internally reflected light from the lower layer of skin. The ingredient was shortlisted for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2013 at the previous in-cosmetics in Paris.

Jeen were at in-cosmetics Asia to launch several new wax blends from the ICE-T (Instant Cold Emulsion Technology) line of ingredients. Included were several Jeesperse ICE-T products which blend national brand equivalent components that can be easily delivered directly into base formulations via this patented technology.

Naturex launched NAT oleis at in-cosmetics Asia, a range of botanical oils of exceptional purity, selected from around the globe for their outstanding benefits. These beauty oils are backed by guarantees in terms of quality, sourcing, environmental stewardship, and social responsibility.

To meet the growing cosmetics trend, Naturex is expanding its portfolio to include botanical oils. Already an expert in cranberry and apricot oils, Naturex has secured a global sourcing and pushed the boundaries of innovation. NAT oleis is a range of 13 botanical oils whose sensorial profiles and efficacy rhyme with ethics and responsibility.

Naturex has conducted several clinical studies to demonstrate the efficacy of certain oils. Each botanical oil has a unique composition in fatty acids (monounsaturated and essential) and unsaponifiable compounds and offers different benefits for hair and skin care. For example, the richness in oleic acid of ungurahui oil makes it the perfect ingredient for repairing dry skin and hair. Naturex also offers a unique cold-pressed cranberry oil. The proprietary process used to extract the oil allows it to maintain its high content in tocotrienols, antioxidants that are particularly beneficial to mature skin.

Oleon was promoting its Radia 7750 emollient for natural formulations. It offers a silicone-like feeling and has good skin compatibility. The low viscosity and quick absorption results in high spreading and quick penetration properties. It also imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts of mineral oil or vegetable oils.
Seppic launched Fluidipure 8G, a new biomimetic purifying active agent which offers complete protection for the cutaneous cocoon. Fluidipure 8G, which is a glycine and sugar biovector, aids in limiting the proliferation of microorganisms on the skin and in formulations. Its anionic structure (negative electric charge) prevents the adhesion of microbial biofilms. This active agent, presented in liquid and transparent form, can be readily incorporated into any type of cosmetic care or hygiene product, including processes performed without heating.

Fluidipure 8G restores the cutaneous ecosystem whilst also preserving the integrity of sensitive skins. When used in hair care, it reduces dandruff, calms scalp irritation and decreases the production of sebum in 3 to 6 shampoo washes (in vivo test performed on 40 volunteers presenting seborrheic dermatitis). Furthermore, the new ingredient participates in reducing hair and body odour. As a biomimetic acidifying agent, it helps attacked skin to regain its physiological acidic pH so ensuring its integrity. Lastly, the addition of 5% Fluidipure8G, in combination with sorbic acid, protects formulations against microbial proliferation.

On the DKSH stand was first-time exhibitor Seven. Based in the UK, Seven specialises in creating fragrances for leading brands in personal care and toiletries. As part of the PZ Cussons group Seven has successfully created fragrances for many well-known consumer brands.  Now, as a separate fragrance business, with their own identity, Seven is offering its fragrance expertise, creativity and knowledge to a wider audience across the globe.

Adding to the international feel to the exhibition, Spanish company Textron was in Bangkok to promote its range of vegetable oils and preservation systems. Acnibio is a range of preservation systems that offers specific solutions to each cosmetic preservation problem, providing optimum efficacy even at very low use levels. The range is based on biodegradable actives to help achieve a harmonious balance with nature and the environment. Incorporating the correct Acnibio preservation system and employing good, hygienic manufacturing practices will assure formulators of the best possible formulations.

Looking ahead
The scale of the show will be a heartening sight for anyone involved in the personal care industry in Asia. Various reports have concluded that some of the region’s economies have been stagnating, but there was certainly little evidence of that in Bangkok. Aside from the busy feel to the show, from speaking to exhibitors there was genuine optimism regarding the coming 12 months and beyond.
The 2014 show will once again be held in Bangkok on 4 to 6 November.  Also this year will be in-cosmetics held in Hamburg, Germany, on 2-4 April. Personal Care will of course be at both events and we look forward to seeing you there.