Anthony Ansaldi, Marie Yednak-Carpenter – Presperse, USA
Mascara is one of the most commonly used cosmetics for the eyes. In modern mascara formulations the purpose of mascara is to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes. For decades formulators have been working on attaining these attributes while trying to eliminate some of the problems associated with mascara such as smudging, difficult removal, clumping etc. In order to solve these problems and provide the consumer with the benefits they are looking for, mascaras must be carefully formulated to allow easy and even application without smudging.
Water-based.
Solvent-based.
Water/solvent emulsion systems.
Water-based mascaras are formulated to include waxes, pigments and resins dissolved in water. They are considered to be oil-in-water emulsions and have a high concentration of water phase. In these products the water evaporates readily, creating a fast-drying product that thickens and darkens the lashes. The water-soluble nature of the product makes for easy removal, but unfortunately allows it to smudge easily. Water-based mascaras have been formulated to be water-resistant by increasing the amount of wax or polymer added to improve the adherence of the pigment to the lashes.
Solvent-based mascaras make use of petroleum distillates to which the pigments and waxes are added. These petroleumbased materials confer a waterproofing character. As a result, this type of product performs well with respect to being smudge resistant but removal could be difficult and requires the use of an oilbased lotion or cream to facilitate removal.
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