FEATURE ARTICLES

The sun delivers energy as electromagnetic radiation, characterised by specific wavelengths. The spectrum of the electromagnetic radiation emitted by the sun and able to reach the Earth’s surface ranges between 290 and 300 nm.

The Society of Cosmetic Scientists has packed SCS Formulate with more content than ever before. From 11-12 November 2014 at the Ricoh Arena, visitors will be able to take advantage of 26+ hours of content.

In 2015 in-cosmetics celebrates its 25th anniversary in Barcelona on 14-16 April, marking a major milestone in the show’s history. More than 680 exhibitors including Ashland, BASF, Bayer, and Merck are set to use the show as a launch pad for their innovations, as thousands of professionals come together to discuss the most important trends and challenges in the personal care industry.

Consumers want smooth, even-toned skin that expresses youth and beauty, despite their age. However, as skin ages, it can become blotchy or develop uneven, dark spots, upsetting its natural uniformity and radiance. As a result, truly effective skin lightening (also referred to as whitening) formulations continue to be in high demand. As noted by Mintel:

Communication between cells within a certain skin layer, but also across various skin layers and between different skin cell types, is imperative for the proper function of skin.

The unique short-chain ceramide caprooyl phytosphingosine (trade name Sphingokine NP) was found to stimulate the cross-talk between different cells throughout the skin, resulting in visibly plumped and reshaped skin.

A press release1 was issued by the European Commission in Brussels on 26 September 2014 restricting the use of three preservatives in cosmetic products. The commission stated the restrictions: “further strengthened the protection of consumers, in particular babies and young children.”

The global oral care market was estimated by Mintel at US$30.5 billion in 2013 and is estimated to grow around 5% annually over the next five years.1

Despite promotions on personal care products being at an all-time high, growth in sales across Europe is declining, and price increases have become difficult to justify. With promotions no longer exciting consumers and driving increased volume sales the way they used to, a need for innovation has come to the fore.

A large number of ingredients are used in cosmetic applications. Lipids are commonly known as water non-soluble compounds. Depending on their structure, they can be classified as: fluid lipids (oils), pasty lipids (butters) or solid (waxes). Lipids are constituted by triglycerides (esters) and a fraction called ‘insaponifiable content’.

At this year’s in-cosmetics show in Hamburg, there was a wide array of new ingredients designed to make stand-out products in the hair market. From styling polymers to conditioning agents, there was plenty to support formulators in their quest to develop new products in what is an increasingly competitive and demanding environment.

Exposure to sunlight is of the utmost importance in vitamin D3 formation and has the additional cosmetically desirable effect of imparting a bronzed tanned glow to our skin in the summer months.

An antimicrobial agent is a chemical compound added to cosmetic products that inhibits the growth of, or inactivates, pathogens or spoilage microorganisms. If a cosmetic product becomes contaminated with microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast and moulds and is then applied to damaged or broken skin, it has the potential to cause irritation or infection.

Imagine a world without preservatives. Shampoo would be packaged in single-use packets. Face cream would be stored in the refrigerator and disposed of after about a week.

As the personal care industry evolves, formulators are seeking innovative solutions for their formulations’ needs. There is increased interest in ingredients that can offer multiple functions within a formulation.

The development of any cosmetic product focuses generally on two factors: efficacy and safety. Both factors are closely related to the concentration of use, either because a minimum amount of assets are required in order to obtain visible results, or to adjust the amount to avoid unwanted effects.

A recent study conducted by L’Oréal India has given weight to the position that one of the most effective ways of achieving and maintaining a lighter complexion is to regularly use sun care products.

With the Asia Pacific cosmetics industry among the fastest growing markets in the world, the innovation on offer in the region is leading to new trends and unique opportunities for exciting product development.

Being home to two-thirds of the global population, Asia Pacific is a true lure for beauty and personal care brands. In China alone, the estimated population in 2015 is 1.39 billion. With the 1,020,000 Chinese millionaires and over 60,000 ‘super-rich’, China is poised to consume one-third of global luxury goods.

Twenty-first century cosmetics has always been driven by consumer needs which require perceived performance.

The base formula of a cosmetic product contributes greatly to its success, not only in terms of the pleasure it provides upon application but also in terms of efficacy. The base must not be considered only as the sensorial part of a formula but also as a key element to improve the clinical results.