FEATURE ARTICLES

A key trend that will impact Asia Pacific’s beauty and personal care industry in 2017 is ‘Active Beauty’. Consumers are being encouraged to exercise their bodies and brains, and beauty brands will formulate products to help them in their quest for health and fitness.

Since 2015, in-cosmetics Korea has been attracting exhibitors and visitors to the South Korean capital of Seoul with the aim of benefiting from the country’s worldleading scientific and technological infrastructure.

Natural, organic, green, sustainable - these are buzzwords we are bombarded with every day as consumers, marketeers and scientists. However, many of these words hide a world of confusion and discussion within the cosmetic industry.

Olive squalane has seen a tremendous increase in consumption since shark liver oil was prohibited in cosmetics in Europe. Its exceptional sensorial profile including an excellent skin biocompatibility with a moisturising effect made it a favourite with cosmetic formulators.

Epigenetics is gaining strong interest in the cosmetics field, being understood as an alternative but powerful approach to control biological processes such as skin ageing. Inspired by this concept, the new Reproage™ peptide was launched. After several efficacy tests, the cosmetic active ingredient showed to help skin regeneration properties last longer and improve the skin’s appearance, with an enhanced smoothness and radiance.

Half of the world’s population lives in cities and consequently pollution is now a major concern for a large number of consumers. It is not only a concern regarding the pollution’s impact on the Earth, but also on people’s health in general and in particular on the skin.

Skin pigmentation results from the synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin. Increased melanin production is a result of either UV exposure or various disorders characterised by the appearance of dark spots on the skin

Environmental pollution has now become the talk of the world. It is very important to keep in mind that more than half of the world’s population now lives in an urban area. It is assumed that by 2030, 60% of the world’s population will be living in towns and cities, rising to 70% by 2050.1

Fluorescent materials absorb light energy, and re-emit it at a longer wavelength. Fluorescence is used in a range of industries, including cosmetics. Usually, synthetic substances are employed.

A novel neurocosmetic soothing active, a biomimetic peptide inspired by the analgesic component of sea anemone venom, immediately comforts sensitive skin after the first application.

The Zika virus epidemic in particular has highlighted the threat resulting from bloodsucking parasites. In the past, Europeans attributed health concerns mostly to ticks, while mosquitoes were regarded mainly as a nuisance.

Oatmeal has been used for many centuries as a soothing agent to relieve itch and irritation associated with various dry skin conditions. In 1945, a ready to use colloidal oatmeal, produced by finely grinding the oat and boiling it to extract the colloidal material, became commercially available.1 Today, colloidal oatmeal is available in various dosage forms from powders for bathing to shampoos, shaving gels, and moisturising creams.

Ageing is one of the unavoidable processes in life and can be defined as changes in structures and tissue processes that affect related organs and systems with time.

Star ingredient of a famous energy drink, taurine is gradually conquering the health and beauty segments. Beyond its energising properties, this atypical amino acid is on the way to becoming one of the new anti-ageing molecules. Working on special culture conditions of Jania rubens in a photo-bioreactor, allowed the development of the first plant-based taurine ingredient.

The Immune Balance Rating™ (IBR) system is an exciting new in vitrotesting protocol for sunscreens and other topical products based upon cellular responses from skin and immune cells. The system compares products to a reference standard and measures five cellular outputs. Each output gives a relative rating and the product is then scored based on the average across all areas. This allows standardised grading of products and more substantive claims and targeted marketing.

Historically soap is known to mankind as a substance for cleaning purposes and its manufacturing process has evolved over a period of time which are currently known as swing and kettle processes.1

Cosmetic ingredients are not only developed for technical functions but also for specific sensory targets.

In recent years, we have seen an increasing blurring of the boundaries between skin care and colour cosmetics in terms of product formats, benefits, and claims. This certainly has not been lost on ingredient manufacturers, with a noticeable trend of traditionally skin care-oriented active ingredients being repositioned, and in cases re-tested, specifically targeting use in colour cosmetics.

In 2016 it was estimated that the European cosmetic market was worth €77 billion and that about 25% of all cosmetics placed on the market each year are new.1 Product claims and advertising play an important part in persuading customers to purchase cosmetic products.

Scents of the upcoming seasons are inspired by nature. Compositions reminding of the African grasslands, as well as aquatic fresh notes taking the colourful submarine world as an inspiration, are making up trend topics of the year.