FEATURE ARTICLES

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Impotence, and the evaluation of traditional ethnopharmaceutical remedies, are examined in this article. The modes of action of the remedies are described, and details of their chemical constituents given.

Male erectile dysfunction or impotence affects 10-15% of all men, which includes the figure of one in three men over the age of 60.

Emilie Desmarthon, Martine Seu-Salerno – LCW–Sensient Cosmetic Tech, France

The choice of materials was essential in the development of a new approach for colouring the oily phases in transparency.

Heidi Moser, Dr Marc Heidl – Pentapharm, Switzerland

The first synthetic peptides which were successfully introduced to the cosmetic market are the copper peptide-1 (Cu-GHK) in 2001 and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Pal-KTTKS) in 2002. Many others followed in the meantime and there are still more to come.

Pam Jones – Special Correspondent

CITE 2007 Japan A number of personal care ingredient exhibitions and conferences recently held in the Asia Pacific region have been successful in drawing attention to the latest trends and technologies.

Astron Clinica, Australia

Astron Clinica’s latest product, Cosmetrics, allows formulators to test and accurately quantify the effect of a product by extracting data from live skin.

Using the company’s unique patented technology, SIAscopy, which provides images up to 2 mm beneath the surface of the skin, it presents a solution to the challenge faced by manufacturers in the skin treatment/product markets – consumers are increasingly demanding proof of product claims.

Angela M. Sangirardi and Diana Tang– Lonza Inc, USA

This article examines galactoarabinan (GA) as a multi-functional, natural enhancer for skin care actives.

LaraCare A200 galactoarabinan is a multi-functional polysaccharide extracted from the already-harvested North American Larch tree which grows in abundance in the Northwestern US.

Ellen Botschka, Christine Monro, Tracey Ross, Nancy Clements – International Specialty Products, USA

This article examines rheological and performance studies of cross-linked, linear poly (vinyl pyrrolidone and acrylic acid) copolymer – a multifunctional rheology modifier.

Kunio Shimada, Koji Awai and Hirofumi Irie – NOF Corporation, Japan

Anti-ageing cosmetics are increasingly demanded today. Many consumers, especially women, care about keeping their skin young by controlling wrinkles and freckles and keeping their skin soft, firm, smooth and beautifully white. Ingredients for controlling the ageing of the skin are demanded and are actively studied.

Stefania Abbattista, Alain Thibodeau, Sergio Amari – B&T srl, Italy

This article examines the efficacy of olive oil derivatives in preventing hair damage that can be caused by brushing.

Olea Europea (olive) leaf extract, water* is an active ingredient extracted from the leaves of the olive (Olea Europaea) tree having antiradical, antioxidant and bacteriostatic activities.

Anna Oborska PhD – Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Products Producers

Cellulite is a term used to describe changes that can be seen very often in post pubertal women.1 It appears in the area of thighs and buttocks, manifests by irregular skin contours and reflects a variety of conditions introduced in the scientific literature as adiposis edematosa or gynoid lipodystrophy.2

Beauty is a big business. As an emerging economy, India is becoming increasingly important with the fast moving consumer goods (FMCG) market opening up, retail turning around and the Indian youth – men and women – becoming more experimental and discretionary concerning their approach to skincare.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Significant growth is being maintained in China’s cosmetics sector manufacturing base, and the need of Chinese formulators to acquire information about the latest developments with raw materials and ingredients was underlined by their strong attendance at the recently-held international Personal Care Ingredients Asia (PCIA) event recently held in Guangzhou.

Kazuhiko Tobita – Ajinomoto Co Inc, Japan Naoaki Ikeda, Kenji Aramaki – Yokohoma National University, Japan

We have previously developed a composition consisting of an N-acyl glutamate/nonionic surfactant/divalent salt/water system that showed a favourable degree of viscosity.

Lisa Yuan – International Cosmetics (Asia Pacific) Joint Development Centre

The China Cosmetics Quality Assurance Committee (CCQAC) is the organisation in charge of cosmetics quality control under China Quality Association for Pharmaceuticals (CQAP).

Nancy E. Kinkade Ph.D. – Eastman Chemical Company

The use of natural ingredients is an important trend shaping the personal care market. Consumers are enticed by multicultural, multi-benefit products that promise perceivable benefits to enhance their physical beauty. For cosmetic and personal care companies, new opportunities proliferate at the boundaries of traditional market segments where the one trillion US $ wellness market continues to expand at a rapid rate.

Holger I. Leidreiter, Sascha Herrwerth, Christian Hartung – Degussa, Goldschmidt GmbH, Germany

Modern hair treatments have to fulfill not only technical requirements but also high emotional demands. While data on combing work, tensile strength or fatigue testing are common to support technical claims, the market success of a product is essentially determined by fulfilling those emotional characteristics which are claimed in the advertisement.

Pam Jones, Editorial Consultant – Singapore

The Asian Society of Cosmetic Scientists (ASCS) held its 8th conference in mid- March in Singapore.

Allen Park, Julie Shlepr, Krishnan Tamareselvy, Ph.D. – Noveon

Formulations having an acidic pH, (i.e. pH <6.0), containing cationic components, such as cationic surfactants and salts thereof or active acidic components are commonly referred to as “low pH” formulations. These ingredients are commonly chosen for formulations used to treat or condition the hair and skin and can be found in shampoos and cleansing products, creams and lotions, and gels.

3. Lenaers, M. Dana, M. Pinel, B. Closs – R & D Department, SILAB, France

The use of tensor active ingredients in anti-age care products is well-known to provide the users with immediate and visible effects. Nevertheless, these tensor active ingredients provide only mechanical effects on the skin surface that are also short-term effects. In order to extend the tightening active ingredient offer, Silab has searched for an innovative and complementary approach of immediate and mechanical tensor ingredient using its expertise in both skin biology and tightening active ingredient fields.

Kevin Roden – Asia Pacific Regional Technical Manager, Thor Specialties

Studies conducted on personal care products in the 1960s and 1970s found up to 24% of unopened products were contaminated, mainly with Pseudomonas, while up to 49% of used samples were also contaminated. These studies highlighted the need for the incorporation of preservatives into water-based formulations along with improvements to manufacturing practices.