FEATURE ARTICLES

Ute Wollenweber, Dr Peter Lersch – Degussa AG, Goldschmidt Personal Care, Essen, Germany

The “horny layer” as the top layer of the epidermis, is a thin inert, waterretaining barrier which protects the skin against external influences.

As part of their 60th Anniversary celebration, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques offer us an insight into the history and background to their business.

Uta Kortemeier, Holger Leidreiter, V. Klotzbach – Degussa Goldschmidt Personal Care, Germany.

Chemical hair dyes are very trendy, showing the biggest market increase within the global hair care market (Table 1). Very popular are red dyes, which have the disadvantage of low stability on the hair. Frequent shampoo and/or conditioner treatments cause a fast fading of the colour, with one reason being that red colours are mostly based on a mix of permanent oxidative dyes and semipermanent direct dyes, which are in general non-reactive cationic molecules with high substantivity to the hair surface.

Weng Yuping – Sichuan Cortry Co, China.

Acne is a nuisance that troubles many people. One of the best solutions for this is to use convenient and safe anti-acne products with natural full component formulations that are based on Chinese herbal actives.

Ulrike Marx – Zschimmer & Schwarz, Germany

The Protelan range is a product line of Zschimmer & Schwarz representing surfactants based on amino acids or protein hydrolisates in combination with different fatty acids.

Pierre-Yves Morvan, R&D director – Codif International, France

Melanocytes are crucial cells that produce melanin, a pigment responsible for the pigmentation of both skin and hair. They are mainly found in the basal layer of the epidermis, and have many dendrites that interpolate between keratinocytes. Melanin is contained into ovoid cytoplasmic organelles called melanosomes, which are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The number of melanocytes is more or less identical in all human populations; their density varies depending on the area of the body. The difference in colour is explained by the quality and quantity of the produced pigments.

Julian P. Hewitt, Helene Hine, Lorna M. Kessell – Uniqema Personal Care, Wilton, UK

The use of titanium dioxide as a physical sunscreen ingredient is now widespread, both in beach sun care and daily use skin care products. TiO2 offers broad spectrum (UVA and UVB) protection from a single active ingredient, in particular giving high UVB attenuation which enables high SPF values to be achieved, either by using TiO2 as the sole active in a formulation or in combination with other UV filters. It is also an inherently safe and mild ingredient, making it especially suitable for UV protection products for sensitive skin or for babies and children.

Seo Young – Rhodia Asia Pacific Pte Ltd, Singapore

Multinational companies (MNC) dealing in consumer goods significantly expanded their Chinese market share of toothpaste from 45% in 2000 to 58% in 2005 by growing premium brands vertically to reach critical mass without cannibalisation.

4. Tang PhD, J. Guth PhD, V. Lentner, C. Cappabianca – Lonza Inc.

Safflower oleosomes are small (1-3 µ) spherical shaped “storehouses”, inside which the seed stores triglycerides for use as a future energy source. The surface of the oleosome is covered with a high molecular weight (20-24 KDa) oleosin protein which has been demonstrated to have emulsification properties.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor Jean-Pierre Cavin – Managing Director, E.U.K.

This plant has been known in the west since the beginning of the last century and one of the first references we found was in a very old and revered reference book. It had not surfaced in the 15th edition of 1883 but it was in the 20th.

3. Lenaers, N. Guichard, S. Mazalrey, B. Closs, R & D Department – Silab, Brive, France

In response to the trend of surgery-like products, the cosmetic industry has launched alternative and non-invasive peeling products derived from dermatological research. These agents, mainly chemical peeling (AHAs, retinoids…) or mechanical peeling, eliminate cells on the skin surface and favour cell renewal, which provides youthfulness and radiance to the aged skin.

A large number of important and innovatory new personal care concepts and products will be showcased at PCIA 2006 (Seoul, Korea 7-9 March).

Taking place in Seoul, Korea, from 7 to 9 March 2006, PCIA is more than just an international exhibitor list, with over 200 suppliers taking part in this year’s exhibition. The combined display of the raw materials, ingredients and testing equipment will represent all the key areas of the market and the products shaping it now and in the future.

Luigi Rigano – ISPE

Cleaning away the unwanted impurities that coat our skin surface is not a simple task. Odour elimination, detachment of skin cell debris, dissolution of oxidised sebum lipids, reduction of the bacterial flora and elimination of pollution materials and make-up traces are quite easily achieved.

Maud Jouandeaud, Sylvie Bordes, Catherine Soulie, Brigitte Closs – Silab, France

Philip Jacobs – Symrise, Singapore

With over 200 international exhibitors, scientific conference papers, in-depth technical workshops and free presentations PCIA deals with all the major issues and developments in the personal care market. In 10 years, the event has grown to become the largest, most important personal care event in the Asia Pacific region.

Assessing a factory to see whether it is suitable for manufacture of cosmetics and toiletries is a vital and important part of any client’s responsibilities, especially if intending to export to a foreign market like Europe.

UV radiation can be harmful to the skin. UVB radiation has an immediate effect of causing erythema, while UVA radiation is suspected of causing long-term damage (loss of elasticity of the skin) and possibly melanoma. In addition to sunscreen products, many other personal care products have been incorporating UV actives to mitigate this damage.

Anew generation of cationic conditioning polymers (Polyquaternium-67) has been engineered. Polyquaternium-67 (PQ-67) is a family of high viscosity quaternised hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium. These novel polymers were found to provide enhanced aesthetic feel and good compatibility with surfactant systems without the complication of associative thickening.