FEATURE ARTICLES

Doug Mende – Managing Director, Mende-Biotech, New Zealand

Totarol, an aromatic diterpenoid with chemical formula C20H30O,1 is a natural extract from heartwood of the Totara tree (Podocarpus totara).2 The tree is a podocarp, unique to New Zealand, and has an ancient lineage up to 100 million years ago.

Alexander Chan Ph.D., Sean Kung Ph.D. – Jos H. Lowenstein & Sons Inc., USA

Hair colour technology was introduced in the 19th Century1 and experienced slow market growth at the onset. The 1950s saw hair colorants gain better acceptance in the consumer market, although mainly as a means of camouflaging grey hair. Not until increased R&D effort and new products entered the market did hair colorants become a part of daily cosmetics. Today, hair colouring has become a fashion trend, leading to the strong growth of hair colorants in the hair care category and the current multi-billion dollar industry.

Jonathan Regev – Jojoba Israel

Jojoba oil is very similar to the natural oil our skin produces, though it is technically a liquid wax produced from the seed of the Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) shrub.

Marc Heidl Ph.D. – Pentapharm, Switzerland

Mimic wrinkles are part of the visible face wrinkles. As time passes, these wrinkles persist permanently and become deeper and deeper: frown lines, laughter lines and crow’s feet appear more and more due to the repeated movements of facial muscles.

Manfred Axterer, Cornelia Müller – Symrise GmbH & Co KG Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The mechanism by which the skin becomes irritated and inflamed is both complex and dependent on numerous factors.

Wing Li, Clara Goh, Jennifer Amos, Susan Jordan, Alan Theis, Cal Davis – Dow Chemical

Examined in this article is the maximising of the performance of shampoo with the appropriate matching of optimum silicone particle size and cationic polymer structure.

Robert McEldowney – Essential Oils of Tasmania Pty Ltd

Lavender is an ancient herb with a long history of use in fragrance, medicinal, culinary and aromatherapy applications.

Dr Arturo Puig, Dr José María García-Antón, Montserrat Mangues – Lipotec S.A.

The formation of wrinkles is the most easily visible sign of skin ageing.

Beth Johnson – Dow Corning Corporation, USA Stephane Van Oycke – Dow Corning S.A., Belgium

Over the past decade, the global hair care market has evolved rapidly as competition increases and formulators strive to meet specialised regional needs.

3. Mas-Chamberlin, Ph. Mondon, O. Peschard, F. Lamy and K. Lintner – Sederma SAS, France

Skin is notably elastic, but there are limits to its capacity to stretch. One such limit is evident in the visible skin blemishes generally called “stretch marks” (striae distensae or striae gravidorum).

Anthony Ansaldi, Marie Yednak-Carpenter – Presperse, USA

Mascara is one of the most commonly used cosmetics for the eyes. In modern mascara formulations the purpose of mascara is to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes. For decades formulators have been working on attaining these attributes while trying to eliminate some of the problems associated with mascara such as smudging, difficult removal, clumping etc. In order to solve these problems and provide the consumer with the benefits they are looking for, mascaras must be carefully formulated to allow easy and even application without smudging.

Dr Cornelia Huber – Pentapharm, Basel, Switzerland

Besides other environmental stress factors, UV radiation – even at low doses – is the main origin for DNA damage in human skin. These stress factors increase free radical levels in the cells, leading to the formation of 8-oxo-2’- deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG [Fig. 1]) and single-strand breaks. Cyclopyrimidine dimers directly result from UV radiation energy.1

"Our skin is our most visible feature and the most susceptible to the damaging effects of the sun’s UV rays. It is important then, that we protect our skin from these effects to maintain both our health and our beauty. One way to do this is through the use of sunscreens." -Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain and Kimberly Smith – DSM Nutritional Products

Marlies Regiert – Wacker Chemie AG, Germany

Cyclodextrins (CDs) are probably the most commercially important example of compounds that form host-guest complexes. In the cosmetic industry this ability of CDs to form inclusion complexes with a broad variety of organic compounds is used to increase stability and solubility of cosmetic actives and also decrease sensitivity to light and oxidation. The non-covalent inclusion complexes can have physical, chemical and biological properties that are dramatically different from those of either the parent cosmetic actives or cyclodextrins.

Corinne Stoltz – Seppic, France

Today’s woman is required to juggle work and the day-to-day organisation of family life and has just a few minutes to look after her appearance and stay beautiful, according to the demands of modern society. The development of new “tightening” agents has meant that the skin can be smoothed and lifted quickly and effortlessly.

Todd Ostergaard – Dow Corning Corporation, United States Scott Hawkins – Lipo Technologies Inc., United States Stephen Greenberg Ph.D – Lipo Chemicals Inc., United States

The cosmetic industry, for many years, has focused on providing products to consumers that prevent premature ageing of the skin and that promote a younger, healthier appearance.

David C. Steinberg – Steinberg & Associates Inc, USA

There have been many changes in regulations of personal care products in the past year. Some of these changes are leading us closer to global harmonisation but others are moving us further apart.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

Last year was a particularly active one for raw material suppliers and PCIA in Seoul, Korea added to the list of innovations. This review will look at natural materials and derivatives and take an excursion into the realm of new ideas and concepts.

Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallée – Codif International, France

The fundamental role of calcium for our organism is of course well known. This element is also essential to the correct functioning of the skin, particularly for keratinocyte differentiation and cellular cohesion. Indeed, a rise in the calcium content is crucial to induce a structural modification of the normal human keratinocytes isolated from skin and maintained in monolayer culture.

This year’s Personal Care Ingredients Asia Exhibition and Conference was staged at COEX in Seoul, Korea, in March – being the tenth event in the PCIA series, it was a landmark occasion. PCIA has established itself as the premier event in the Asia Pacific region for showcasing raw materials and ingredients for personal care products.