FEATURE ARTICLES

Julian P. Hewitt, Lorna M. Kessell, Benjamin J. Naden – Croda Chemicals Europe, UK

Inorganic sunscreens such as titanium dioxide are now used very widely throughout the world, especially in Asia.

These materials provide very effective and broad spectrum protection, but suffer from drawbacks in terms of visual and tactile sensory properties: they often give a white film on skin and a less-than-ideal skin feel. Asian consumers, in particular, expect skin care and sun care products to have a high degree of cosmetic elegance.

Products should ideally not leave a film on skin which is perceivable either visually or sensorially.

The objective of the work described in this article was to develop formulations incorporating titanium dioxide, which overcome the sensory drawbacks while maintaining a high degree of efficacy.

16. Benech, C. Mas Chamberlin, P. Mondon, K. Lintner – Sederma, France

Today, the action of cosmetic products is increasingly sophisticated and the biological activity of cosmetic ingredients needs to be comprehensively understood. This article examines a way of establishing an appropriate level of knowledge.

Every day, new cosmetic “active” ingredients are introduced to a worldwide market that is hungry for novelty, originality, and efficacy. Synthetic, extracted or biotechnology derived molecules vie for attention, and producers claim multiple skin benefits and base their arguments on various classical or novel test protocols.

Crystal Arlea and Rosita Nunez – Lonza Inc., USA

For many years, formulators have been searching for effective paraben replacements primarily in skin care products destined for the global marketplace.1 While being a highly effective fungicide, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) was previously not an option for the global marketplace due to restrictions in the Japanese personal care market.

However, in May 2006, IPBC received official approval by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) for use in cosmetic and personal care products under Pharmaceutical and Food Safety Bureau Notification No. 0524001.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The global biocides industry underwent a profound change on the implementation of the European Union’s Biocidal Products Directive 98/8/EC (BPD).

It was modelled after the Plant Protection Products Directive 91/414/CEE but concerns only the non-agricultural pesticides. The first proposal was introduced in 1993, officially adopted by the European Council and the European Parliament on 16 February, 1998 and entered into force on 14 May, 2000. This Directive aims to provide a harmonised single regulatory framework for placing biocidal products on the EU market. Another objective is to ensure a high level of human and environmental protection while safeguarding the EU market competitiveness.

16. Krisdaphong, V. Vatcharapreechasakul, W. Suphachinda – Mae Fah Luang University, Thailand

Cellulite occurs in the deeper layers of the skin and it becomes more visible as the condition worsens.

Over time, fat deposits accumulate in compartments causing the skin to expand and bulge and this shows up on the skin’s surface as dimpled skin. The logical approach is to tackle the problem from within, directly treating the trapped fat and blood circulation, and backing this up with the topical application of lotion and cream.

John Hibbs, Terri Germain, Jonette Payne – McIntyre Group

This article presents the pigment wetting efficacy of a series of novel branchedchain esters using a model system.

This empirical study with mica demonstrates that branched-chain esters are effective pigment wetters. Specifically, Butyloctyl palmitate was found to have exceptional wetting properties with a viscosity difference of only 362 cps between the ester and the 35% pigment suspension. In addition, butyloctyl cetearate, butyloctyl behenate, decyltetradecyl cetearate and tetradecyloctadecyl hexyldecanoate all show excellent pigment wetting properties with an observed difference of less than 2,000 cps between the neat ester and the corresponding suspension in the ester.

Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products

Using Polysilicone-15 to protect hair against UV damage is described in this article. Frequent exposure to UV radiation causes visible damage to hair. Hair with changed colour, split ends, resistance to combing, loss of strength and integrity are the results of excessive sun exposure without proper protection. In this article, it is shown how the unique architecture of Polysilicone-15 can protect hair against UVB radiation with an appealing sensorial product profile and safety for daily use.

Gerd H. Dahms – Kemira Chemie GmbH, Germany

Nanoemulsions and nanocarrier systems such as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and membrane structured solid lipid nanoparticles (MSSN) open up new formulation prospects across the entire range of emulsions.

In the past these systems were discussed more or less from a phenomenological point of view. However, recent research has revealed their enormous potential. Among the numerous outstanding properties of nanoemulsions are film formation on skin, penetration properties and strengthening of the natural skin barrier as well as the ability to encapsulate hydrophobic active substance and to improve a product’s physical properties.

Yumiko Sasagawa – Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corporation, Japan

Recent research shows that the ozone (O3) layer in the stratosphere which protects life on earth by filtering out harmful UV radiation is decreasing due to chemical compounds such as chlorofluorocarbon.

As the degradation of the ozone layer means the higher levels of UV reaching Earth’s surface, we should take every possible measure to protect against UV. But, first of all, why should we be careful about UV?

Dr L. Sousselier, Celina Rocquet, Romain Reynaud – Soliance, France

Age is a main preoccupation of both women and men. More than being an envelope, the skin is a complex organ that needs to maintain constantly its physiological functions in order to ensure homeostasis. Each layer is confronted with certain issues, resolved by specific solutions. It is thus of prime importance to think of ageing prevention globally, but to act locally. Soliance has developed an innovative and fully natural strategy that helps and boosts the biological functions of the skin by acting specifically on each layer of the skin.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH Technical Editor

Ways in which personal care products are made, packaged and transported may have to change dramatically in order to satisfy new criteria of consumers.

Already there is quiet change underway in marketing moods in some Western countries. The desire for natural products is slowly shifting from a desire for exotic naturals and plants with enticing names to themes that are far more subtle and planet-protective.

Harald van der Hoeven, Martina Heldermann, Sabrina John – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH, Germany

Smooth skin with a pure complexion gives an attractive appearance and exudes a

self-confidence and charisma. More and more individuals beyond their teenage years suffer from impure skin. The increased presence of sebum on the face causes not only facial shine, it also plays a crucial part in the pathogenesis of the formation of pimples and pustules, which might lead to acne-prone skin.

Impure or mixed skin often gives an overall impression of neglect, even though the individuals concerned often extend more time and effort to skin care than most people with perfect skin.

19. Eberlin,‡* M.C.V. Pereda,‡* G.C. Dieamant,‡* C. Nogueira,‡* M.L.S. Queiroz* – ‡Chemyunion Química Ltda, Sorocaba, Brazil *Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Campinas, Brazil

Despite the frequency in which it occurs, little has been written in scientific literature on the treatment of periorbital disorders (POD).

The absence of statistics, given the frequency of its occurrence, is counterbalanced by the amount of advertising on cosmetics marketed to treat it. This indicates that POD are a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals.1,2

James V. Gruber, Ph.D., Lisa Bouldin, Suzanne Wilford, Robert Holtz, M.S. – Arch Personal Care Products, USA

It is well established that human skin, which comprises about 70 microns of the outer protective cover for humans, is the principal barrier against the body’s dehydration. Within the confines of the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis lies a water gradient that is low at the surface of the skin and increases quickly as one probes deeper into the skin.1

3. Reymermier,‡ I. Pernet,* B. Sohm,‡ E. Perrier‡ –‡ Engelhard, Lyon, France *Clinique Dermatologique, Hôpital E. Herriot, Lyon, France

Normal human skin is constantly exposed to injury and challenged by environmental microorganisms which do not produce evidence of clinical infections.

This suggests that skin has an innate ability to fight invading microbes.

Stephanie Chan – Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Singapore

It is said that the Asian beauty market is one of the fastest growing in the world, with an annual growth rate of not less than 20%.

According to some estimates, the Singapore retail market for luxury beauty products is worth S$120 million annually, with perfume sales making up a quarter or approximately S$30 million. Skin care accounts for 40% while makeup takes almost 35%.

Dr Arturo Puig, Anna Montero – Lipotec SA, Spain

The aim of this article is to offer a general overview of the mechanisms and molecules involved in maintaining the structure of the skin by modulating the adhesion of skin cells with each other and with other supporting structures.

The study of the mechanisms of skin ageing has traditionally overlooked an important area: the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), a basement membrane that separates the epidermis and its appendages from the dermis, provides anchorage for adjacent basal keratinocytes and acts as a barrier to the transfer of material and cells across the junction.1

Anne Laurie Rodrigues – Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, France

Beauty is famously said to be in the eye of the beholder. Concepts of beauty are shaped by cultural factors, but ultimately every woman’s beauty is an expression of her own unique personality.

This reality is reflected in LS’ Entielles, a new range of naturally derived actives from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of global specialty chemicals supplier Cognis.

This new range explores the diversity of beauty through five actives originating from five regions across the world. It illustrates five different interpretations of beauty.

Claire Mas Chamberlin, Philippe Mondon, Karl Lintner – Sederma SAS, France

While many cosmetic body care products aim at refining and slimming the silhouette of the consumer by focusing on certain body parts (thighs, abdomen) and reducing the cellulite aspects of the skin to improve the firmness of cutaneous tissue via stimulation of lipolytic processes in the hypodermal adipocytes, other demands from the market in facial and body care search for the opposite effect.

Following a successful 2006 show, incosmetics India (formerly PCHi) is returning to Mumbai, India.

Supported by the Indian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ISCC) and the All India Small Scale Cosmetics Manufacturers Association (AISSCMA), in-cosmetics India, running from 20 to 21 November, will feature a vast range of leading personal care and homecare exhibitors. National and international industry experts will also be delivering extensive technical, scientific and commercial educational content tailored to the Indian market.