Human body tissue is subject to a continuous regeneration process. The ability of adult stem cells to self-renew and generate fast proliferating progenitor cells is imperative for tissue regeneration.
The mechanisms of epidermal regeneration by stem cells embedded in specific niches located at the basal layer of the epidermis are investigated. The role of stem cells in the dermis, which delivers firmness and skin elasticity and where wrinkles originate, had not been addressed until recently as the dermal stem cell had yet to be identified.
In 2009 the dermal papilla was found to be a niche for dermal progenitor/stem cells. These dermal papilla cells expressed the stem cell marker gene Sox2 and grow in spherical colonies. It was subsequently discovered that the Sox2-positive cells self-renew, induce the formation of hair follicles and migrate into the inter-follicular dermis. In the inter-follicular dermis they proliferate and differentiate into fibroblast cells that regenerate the extracellular matrix. The identification of dermal stem cells opens the door to the next generation of stem cell cosmetics: specifically, the protection and vitalization of human dermal stem cells to deliver a deep-seated rejuvenation of the skin, which will restore the skin’s firmness and reduce wrinkles.
In 2011, Mibelle Biochemistry succeeded in establishing a Sox2-positive human dermal papilla cell line as a new test system designed to evaluate active ingredients for dermal stem cell vitalization. Our tests revealed that when the cells from a monolayer culture were transferred into hanging drops they form a 3D sphere. Meanwhile, when these spheres were dissociated and the cells seeded back into classical cell culture dishes, it was observed that numerous secondary spheres formed spontaneously. The number and size of these secondary spheres were identified as perfect parameters to evaluate the effect of cosmetic actives on dermal stem cells.
PhytoCellTec Argan, a cosmetic ingredient that is based on plant stem cells of the argan tree, was discovered to be able to significantly increase the number of secondary spheres. The argan tree (Argania spinosa) is native in the southwestern regions of Morocco. The tree, perfectly adapted to the arid climate, has an important ecological role as a provider of wood and oil, produced from of its fruit kernels. Argan trees are an endangered species and as such they cannot be used as a raw material for a cosmetic ingredient. Instead, the sustainable plant tissue culture technique was used to produce vegetal raw material from argan. The technique is based on the propagation of plant stem cells to produce single cells in culture to harvest plant metabolites. This practice allows the production of plant material under sterile and standardized conditions independent of season and other environmental restraints.
PhytoCellTec Argan is the very first cosmetic active capable of both protecting and vitalizing human dermal stem cells. This will not only help to accelerate the skin’s natural repair process, but also uniquely provide a second chance to every type of skin.
