Ingredients focus: a concise look at new products

Not to mention the costs involved in these “anti-ageing” procedures. Market products like wrinkle erasers that offer similar performance without the hassle related expense are gaining popularity due to their immediate effectiveness and value. These types of products generally contain silicone materials (elastomers and powders) due to their versatile functionality and skin safety. Silicone elastomers/powders:

•  Provide enhanced aesthetics and luxurious skin feels.
•  Provide wrinkle correction and soft focus effects.
•  Assist in the delivery of active ingredients for long term skin benefits.

 A younger appearance

Gransil EP-9 (INCI: Polysilicone-11, Water, Laureth-12, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) is a 60% emulsion of spherical elastomer powder. A controlled particle size of 2-4 microns offers enhanced aesthetics and improved formula dispersibility. The technology offers a number of advantages over other materials including cost performance and ease of use. Ideally suited for “instant” soft focus effect formulations, Gransil EP-9’s performance comes from its concentrated elastomer content (60% polysilicone-11). This concentration provides an intensified wrinkle filling and line blurring function to visibly diminish lines and wrinkles. In addition, soft cushion and silky sensory feel is experienced on application.

Combine with active ingredients for immediate & long term results

Gransil EP-9 can be combined with active ingredients to offer both immediate and long term benefits in formulations. Ideal formulations include those designed to mask crow’s feet and under eye blemishes. The product delivers an excellent non-tacky, non-oily, smooth feel to all applications areas. The end result leaves a powdery after feel on the applied area. The elastomer network also offers sebum absorption and control to soak up excess oils on the skin and T-Zone areas.

Ease of formulating options

Gransil EP-9 can be formulated into oil-inwater emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, dispersions, and other formulating systems. For water-based formulations it can simply be combined with the aqueous phase to create effective products. Suggested use level is 5%-45% depending on the application; 25%-45% for instant soft focus and 5%-10% for added sensory feel. Please reference Grant Industries formulation G103-118-1 Wrinkle Eraser Cream for starting points. Applications areas include skincare, colour cosmetics, body care, and sun care. Gransil EP-9 has a globally approved regulatory status along with a nonirritating, non-sensitising safety profile.

New product holds true

DSM Nutritional Products

Tilamar Fix A1000 is a new hair styling polymer from DSM that promises extra strong hold with natural feel. While in vivo tests have already proven it superior to market benchmarks, winning a prestigious BSB Innovation Prize has further demonstrated its quality. DSM lays claim to 50 years of experience and success in polymer technology. Recently, the company has identified hair care as an important segment of their personal care offering and has invested in R&D in this area. Winning a BSB Innovation Prize for the new polymer marks an early success in this endeavour. The new product positions DSM as an innovative force in hair care with focus on trends and consumer needs: a styling polymer with extra strong hold and natural feel. Tests have confirmed that Tilamar Fix A1000’s unique properties unite the best characteristics of hair styling polymers while avoiding the drawbacks such as flaking or style build-up.

A new benchmark

Specifically designed for aerosol applications Tilamar Fix A1000 is based on a unique and proprietary monomer composition. Several hairdresser half-side tests were performed to compare it with different market products. In these in vivo tests, a stylist evaluated the overall end-user experience of products while assessing key benefits. The tests proved that the new hair styling polymer is superior for finishing and style creation with the following claims:

•  Extra strong hold and fibre crosslinking.
•  No tacky feel on wet and dry hair.
•  Short drying time.
•  Natural feel and look of hair.
•  Keeps volume and style after brushing out.

The new hair styling polymer also set market benchmarks in High Humidity Curl Retention as well as removability and style build-up (polymer accumulation on hair), two key performance parameters for styling polymers. DSM’s new product held curls longer compared to benchmark polymers up to 24 hours and over a very wide neutralisation range.

Conclusion

With Tilamar Fix A1000, DSM has located a substantial and still unmet consumer need by combining strong hold and natural feel in a product that remains easy to handle. DSM’s strong active ingredients, application support and focus on consumer needs and trends help ensure hair care manufacturers can create successful products. And with DSM investing in hair care, manufacturers can also look forward to more innovation coming in the future.

Tersil R – mineral and organic active ingredient

Terramater

Clay was probably the first cosmetics used in the human history. With the growing of the organic market and the aversion of many consumers to synthetic and/or petroleum derivates cosmetic ingredients, clays are an excellent option for use in cosmetics industry and aesthetic treatments. But there are not many scientific studies with this raw material. A few years ago, Terramater began a new era with the Tersil & Sparclay lines, conducting scientific clinical studies with this natural, sustainable and technological cosmetic ingredient. Clay is a natural raw material of mineral origin, composed of extremely fine particles of silicates, as well as several microminerals. Formed in a platelet structure and these layers can contain different types of silicate and metal concentrations such as: titanium, magnesium, copper, zinc, selenium, calcium, potassium, manganese, sodium and iron. The clays have their origin in sedimentary rocks that over years (in the scale of a millennia) and under the climatic processes, are dissolved (imagine a mountain dissolving in a valley, reaching a river or a lake). During this course, the clay collects metals and components from the land, and it is this action from the waters that takes the organic compositions from each micro region, forming the mineral product which is known as clay. The line known as Tersil was developed by the Terramater Special Mineral and Organic Ingredients. Various kinds of clays were selected at appropriate places for mining in Brazil. Tersil is composed of twelve different Brazilian clays, presenting different granulometric profiles, especially developed for different cosmetic applications, from exfoliating to make up actives. The product is prepared specially for the cosmetic industry and spas. They can be used pure or applied in different cosmetic formulations. Tersil R is a red colour clay, 100% natural and pure and both the mining and manufacturing processes are ECOCERT certified. The product has a high elasticity and tensor effect, benefits the cosmetic product as an emollient (reducing oily sensory and changes to the rheology), pigment and co-emulsifier (because of its platelet structure with metals on its surface improves emulsions and sunscreen stability).

Safety

Tersil R was submitted for clinical tests for safety for the dermatological evaluation of dermis compatibility. The study concluded that the product does not present:

•  Potential of primary irritation to the skin.
•  Potential of accumulated irritation to the skin.
•  Potential of sensitisation to the skin. Therefore it means that it is extremely safe for application in formulations for skin care. It is important to note that during the compatibility tests of the skin, no volunteer presented any irritation signs.

Evaluation of effectiveness

The objective of the tests is to prove the clinical improvement of skin ageing, through a tensor effect and the increase of the elasticity of the skin before and after the application of a cosmetic mask containing Tersil R. The analysis of the viscoelastic properties of the skin are an important way of evaluating the noxious effects which the skin manifests through chronological ageing and the photoageing process.

Tensor effect

Removal of Tersil R after 20 minutes of the application. Reduction of 37.84% after four hours of the application of the product (see Fig. 1).

Elasticity

Removal of Tersil R after 10 minutes of the application. Increase of 173.78% after four hours of the application of the product (see Fig. 2).

Applications

The clay can be incorporated into a variety of products, including: mineral and organic make ups, exfoliating products, facial emulsions and anti-ageing gels, emulsions for eyes area, facial masks for use before the make-up, body masks, emulsions for the bust area, soap gel and scrubs, facial masks. Recommended dosage levels: skin care O/W: 2%-8%, skin care W/O: 1%-5%, body & facial mask: 20%-60%, gel: 2%-4%, liquid soap: 4%-15%, shower gel: 2%-10%, bar soap: 5%-15%.

Conclusion

A new viewpoint of the millenary clays. The clinical study shows that Tersil R is a technological, natural, and sustainable raw material for the cosmetic industry and aesthetic treatments. With a high elasticity and tensor effect, in addition to its other benefits as an emollient, co-emulsifier and pigment, the product will find many uses by formulators globally.

Active plant-derived polyphenols to soothe sensitive skin

Alban Muller International

More than 50% of men and women complain of skin discomfort described as sensitive, reactive, intolerant or even irritable. Sensitive skin is characterised by an impaired skin barrier, which causes severe dehydration, allows for the easier penetration of irritating substances, and over-produces free radicals associated with an exacerbated inflammatory response, leading to an abnormally high secretion of cytokines (pro-inflammatory molecules). These phenomena result in the appearance of redness, itching and other skin discomforts and in the long-term, lead to accelerated ageing of the skin. Polyphenols are well-known antioxidants and over the last few years, multiple studies have brought to light their various therapeutic properties. In particular studies have shown tannins to exhibit astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. Thus, Alban Muller’s laboratories have developed an active ingredient, Cytokalmine (INCI: Maltitol (and) Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract), that is rich in phenolic compounds, especially tannins, punicalagin and ellagic derivatives, for the care of sensitive and reactive skin. Here, the company presents research findings of the ingredient’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Anti-inflammatory properties: in vitro tests

The soothing activity of Cytokalmine was first evaluated in vitro by measuring the effects of the native extract on the secretion of three inflammatory cytokines: IL-6, IL-8 and MCP-1. Results were compared with those of the standard polyphenol punicalagin contained in the plant (Fig. 3), which has known antiinflammatory properties. Caco-2 cells, model cells of the human intestinal barrier, were cultured as a monolayer in a plate up to confluence. After 21 days of culture, the cells differentiate into enterocytes. The differentiated cells were incubated for one hour with increasing doses (0 ?M to 50 ?M) of punicalagin extract, as a reference, and the test extract, which naturally contains up to 7% punicalagin, to compare their anti-inflammatory efficacies. The cells were then incubated for 24 hours in a medium containing a mixture of proinflammatory molecules including TNF-??factor, IFN-?, LPS and IL-1??to trigger the inflammatory reaction process. Finally, the supernatants were recovered and centrifuged at 3000 g for 10 minutes in order to quantify the inflammatory cytokines secreted. This quantification was carried out by the immuno-enzymatic ELISA-sandwich technique. Figure 4 shows the results of the cytokine IL-8 secretion quantification. The IC50 of the IL-8 secretion of Cytokalmine was about 5 ?M, whereas it was 20 ?M with the pure punicalagin, indicating the new active was four times more efficient than the isolated standard polyphenol.

Antioxidant properties: ex vivo test

Next, the effects of the product on reactive oxygen species (ROS) production were compared with those a standardised Ginkgo biloba extract (24% ginkgolids and bilobalids, 6% terpenic lactones), which is known for its antioxidant efficacy. The antioxidant activity was tested on neutrophils derived from human blood samples. The cellular suspension of neutrophils was isolated and incubated in wells with increasing doses (0 ?g/mL to 25 ?g/mL) of Cytokalmine or ginkgo extract for 10 minutes at 37°C. After incubation, the neutrophils were activated by phorbol myristate acetate to stimulate ROS production. Immediately after activation of the neutrophils, ROS production was measured by chemiluminescence. This technique enables the detection and quantification of oxidative reactions with a fluorescent reagent (lucigenin). The emission of luminescence was measured with a luminometer, and ROS production was measured for 30 minutes. The results are expressed as a percentage of relative chemiluminescence (CL), compared with the 100% control. Figure 5 shows the dose-response results of Cytokalmine vs. ginkgo standardised extract on the production of ROS. The product significantly reduced the fluorescence emitted by the oxidation reaction. In fact, only 5 ?g/mL of the Cytokalmine was required to reduce ROS production by 50%, compared with the ginkgo extract control, which required two to five times this amount to achieve the same efficacy. Conclusion By reducing the production of free radicals and lowering the secretion of inflammatory molecules, Cytokalmine has been shown to impart soothing effects. Ideal for soothing sensitive and reactive skin, this active also helps to protect skin from factors responsible for premature ageing. Cytokalmine is thus recommended for soothing, preventive anti-ageing care products as well as eye contour and aftersun care products and men care products.

Low molecular dimethicone 2 cSt a valid alternative to cyclopentasiloxane

KCC Silicone

A search for a valid D5 option became increasingly important since Canada implemented the monitoring of the volatile silicones bioaccumulation. Figure 6 shows the basic structure of a low molecular weight dimethicone, 1.5 cSt (n=2) and 2.0 cSt (n=3). A mixture of low molecular weight dimethicone composed of 1.5 cSt and 2.0 cst blends are the simplest and closest volatile alternative to the cyclopentasiloxane (D5). The high volatility of the low molecular weight dimethicone 1.5 cSt makes it an excellent ingredient in formulations requiring a fast drying time. Both 1.5 cSt and 2 cSt cause no irritation and offers an excellent compatibility with the typical ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. When comparing at room temperature these alternatives with the existing volatile silicone cyclic, the 1.5 cSt and 2.0 cSt blends deliver a better skin feel, increase spreadability, emolliency without compromising the volatility (Fig. 7). When the blend ratio is 40:60 and 50:50, its volatility and sensory feelings are similar to the cyclopentasiloxanes (D5) (Figs. 8 & 9).

Conclusion

As a conclusion, the KCC Low Molecular Weight Dimethicones (available in 1.0 cSt , 1.5 cSt and 2.0 cSt) provide a valid volatile alternative to the commonly used cyclopentasiloxane (D5), delivering unique benefits such as silky, light and non-greasy feel, without irritation (Table 2) it can be incorporated in all cosmetic formulations.