Milan show set to be the largest yet

And with Milan’s reputation as the business fashion capital of the continent, it is not surprising that after seven years away, the city has been chosen to host the next instalment of in-cosmetics, the leading personal care ingredients exhibition. Promising to be as exciting as last year’s record-breaking event in Paris, the 2011 show will take place on 29-31 March at the Fiera Rho exhibition centre in the heart of the city. Already the largest ever show in terms of floor space, the exhibition will play host to more than 500 world-class suppliers of new and innovative cosmetic ingredients and services, as well as leading testing laboratories, software providers, industry associations and publishing houses. Highlighting the importance of the event, all stand space for 2011 was booked on-site at last year’s event, however, the organisers have expanded the area to meet the demands of eager exhibitors, signalling a recovered and revived outlook for the cosmetics industry following last year’s recession. Industry heavyweights such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia will naturally have a presence alongside smaller first-time exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the exhibition taking place on home soil. in-cosmetics exhibition director, Lucy Gillam, commented: “Last year’s show was the biggest event ever, so we certainly set the bar very high, but we’re extremely confident that we will match if not exceed expectations for the Milan show. Our exhibitors are, as always, of the highest quality and the educational programme is certainly shaping up well. We have a really compelling line-up of speakers already confirmed to present on some of the hottest topics, which will no doubt provoke some lively debate amongst visitors.” Dubbed a three-day “training centre” for the industry, the show’s educational programme will offer a wide range of presentations, workshops and features to enhance visitors’ commercial, scientific and technical knowledge. Regulatory, Scientific and Innovation Seminars will take place alongside Formulation Workshops and Marketing Trends Presentations, while the ever-popular in-focus and the Innovation Zone will once again be key features on the exhibition floor.

Education content

A programme of Regulatory Seminars will provide delegates with thoughtful, educational insights into the movement of legislation including the current impact of future regulatory amendments in Europe and China. Dr Annelie Struessman, technical director of CONUSBAT and experts from Beiersdorf and Henkel will lead the first session, “Safety Assessment for Cosmetics in Europe”, taking place on 29 March from 09.30-13.30 hrs. The seminar will outline the challenges and legal requirements for safety assessments and provide practical guidelines for the design, preparation and maintenance of Product Information Files (PIFs) and Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSRs). China is also a key issue on the regulatory agenda of cosmetics companies today. Last summer, the SFDA published several guidelines and measures in a move to reorganise the supervision of cosmetic products in the country. Dr Alain Khaiat, president of Seers Consulting and vice-president of the ASEAN Cosmetic Association, and a panel of key industry experts, will aim to shed some light on this new legislative framework during the “Chinese Cosmetic Regulations” seminar on 29 March from 14.30-18.00 hrs. There will be a series of Scientific Seminars at this year’s show delving into two of the industry’s most topical issues; skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions and nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics. Organised by CEC Editore and HPC Magazine respectively, the seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in these areas. On 30 March 2011 at 09.30-13.30 hrs, “Skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions” will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin ageing. The most recent methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes. Other areas set to be covered include optimal dermal delivery for anti-ageing actives and the latest innovation in actives and formulation. Among those presenting will be Luigi Rigano from Studio Rigano, Anthony Rawlings from AVR Consulting, Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the San Gallicano Dermatological Institute in Italy, Dr Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions and Stefano Manfredini from the Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche at the University of Ferrara, Italy. Also on 30 March 2011, between 14.00-18.00 hrs, “Nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics” will delve into the practical applications and opportunities as well as the safety of cosmetic nano-formulations. Consumer perception and industry response to the techniques will be examined along with the regulatory framework in Europe. Finally, the seminar will take a look at whether biotechnology represents an alternative to animal model testing. Experts confirmed to present include Dr Gerhard J Nohynek, scientific head of the worldwide safety department at L’Oréal, Dr Joachim Kreysa, unit head of ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) European Commission – DG Joint Research Centre, Dr Steffi Friedrichs, director general at the Nanotechnology Industries Association, Dr Florian Schellauf, issue manager technical & regulatory affairs for COLIPA and Dr Fred Zuelli, researcher at Mibelle A.G. Biochemistry.

Formulation workshops

The Formulation Workshops will provide lively, interactive and controversial insights into the challenges and issues high up on the formulators’ radar Dr Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions will present on “From Active Ingredient to Active Formulation in 5 Simple Steps” (29 March, 14.00-18.00 hrs). Delegates attending the workshop will be given guidance on how to select the best actives for optimum skin delivery, identify the size of the delivery gap from the required minimum effective concentration and select the most appropriate skin delivery system. Attendees will also learn how to design the right formulation to deliver the actives and perform a clinical trial to assess the product’s efficacy. The workshop will be ideal for cosmetic manufacturers, product developers and formulators, marketers, raw material and ingredient companies, certification and standard agencies Here Personal Care Europe talks to Johann as he explains his latest research: “Through my years spent working in cosmetic science, I have often looked at how to achieve better clinical efficacy out of expensive active ingredients. I recently discovered a method that I believe does just that, meaning that you can obtain increased efficacy at a lower percentage of active ingredient. “My workshop at in-cosmetics is based on these principles and will examine in some detail the steps involved in identifying the appropriate skin delivery system. “To begin with, you need to carry out calculations on the chemical structure of active ingredients, for example if they are too big they will have low potential. In combination with the minimum effective concentration, you can then quickly move onto calculating the skin delivery gap. The size of the skin delivery gap will determine the skin delivery system that you will need. “Then you can proceed to make the formulation or delivery system with the active ingredient that you have identified via the skin delivery gap. Once you have succeeded in doing this, it is essential to minimise the concentration of the active ingredient in your formulation without losing any of the clinical effects. This in fact deviates from what many suppliers currently tell you since they are not interested in reducing concentrations. However, contrary to previous claims, it is possible to make a 0.1% formulation that is as active as (or even more active than) a 3% formulation. I have named this ‘MICMAC’ – the MInimum Concentration of the active ingredient in the formulation that will deliver Maximum ACtivity. This is now the ideal formulation – something that will cost the least amount of money yet will deliver the maximum return. “Once this final formulation has been created, it is time to test that it works and confirm the delivery results. Then it’s ready for the clinical trials. “Assuming that your active ingredient can penetrate the skin, this is my successguaranteed approach to creating the most cost-effective, accurate method of skin delivery and my workshop promises to provide delegates with stimulating insights into this very latest scientific discovery. Formulating with your brains instead of your hands.” Judi Beerling from Organic Monitor will then look at “Emulsifiers & Surfactants: The Natural Options” (31 March 09.30- 13.00 hrs). The new workshop will act as a practical guide for companies looking to formulate natural and organic personal care products with alternatives to synthetic emulsifiers and surfactants. With a growing number of companies trying to avoid SLS/ SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural and organic alternatives. However, what options are available? What are the associated technical and formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective, and what are the related safety issues? The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier, Beraca, attracts over two-thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging. Showcasing a range of innovative eco-designed product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry. As ever, this year’s Innovation Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be full of innovation and inspiration, with the key theme in the end-product section being anti-ageing. At in-cosmetics 2011, visitors will be able to discover the latest finished products on the market from Europe, Asia, USA and Latin America, sourced by Mintel’s team of beauty trend spotters. In addition, the feature will also house some of the latest ingredient launches from exhibitors, enabling visitors to quickly identify the very latest launches and provide ideas for their next NPD or marketing campaign. A wealth of facts and figures, case studies and advice will be presented at the highly popular Marketing Trends Presentations at the show this year. Conducted by renowned international market research companies, brands and consultancies, the sessions are aimed at sparking off new marketing ideas for companies keen to set themselves apart from the competition. Sustainability, green chemistry and ethical sourcing will feature prominently in the programme, with two round-tables and a presentation from Organic Monitor already confirmed. Kline and Euromonitor International will reveal the latest ingredients and beauty trends while the founders of niche brands Bulldog and Davina Peace will share their secrets for success in live interviews. How cosmetics companies can draw inspiration from other industries such as professional hair care and cosmetic surgery as well as changes in online and offline shopping behaviour will also be among the subjects discussed. Innovation Seminars provide an opportunity for suppliers to highlight the very latest ingredients and formulation techniques they are currently pioneering. Traditionally extremely popular with visitors, the seminars last 30 minutes and provide a platform for companies to share their information and knowledge with a captive audience. Visitors can choose from 44 sessions covering a wide variety of topics including the latest developments in anti-ageing treatments, nature based emulsifiers and ethically sourced ingredients. A new online community tool – CONNECT – will also be introduced for the Milan show. It provides exhibitors and pre-registered visitors with a diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated email system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest, to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show.

World-class exhibitors
Skin care

Among the 500-plus exhibitors set to showcase their latest innovations and scientific developments to the visitors is Arch Personal Care Products (stand F50). The company will be highlighting its patentpending Lotus Zymbiozome Fermentum (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Lotus japonicus Symbiosome Extract), an innovative ingredient which, when formulated into skin care products, demonstrates unique effects in controlling skin colour and tone. In addition, the company will be showcasing NAB Rhodiola Extract (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Pentylene Glycol and Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract), an exciting, innovative new ingredient for skin care products offering “adaptogenic thermal stress protection”. Rhodiola Rosea is a robust plant native to the arctic regions of Tibet and Eastern Siberia. The plant contains protective properties, giving it the ability to survive, adapt and even thrive in such conditions. NAB Rhodiola Extract assists the skin in adapting and reducing the stress incurred when it is exposed to varying temperature fluctuations.

Sinerga R&D Laboratories (at stand Q70) introduce a new route to improve deodorisation where enzymatic and bacterial inhibition should be reached in order to reduce or eliminate human bad odours, Verochic is a vegetable origin pure product, derived from Illicium verum (star anise) and an innovative cosmetic ingredient with patented applications, mainly for deodorancy applications. It is also indicated for its anti-acne, antidandruff, and exfoliating activity. An oral presentation, “What’s next for Sinerga in antiaging treatments” will be held also at Innovation Seminar Zone on Tuesday 29 March at 15.00 hrs. In the in-focus 2011 zone “Sustainable beauty 2011”, Sinerga will be present with the development of a 360° sustainable cosmetic product, from the main ingredient to the packaging, providing significant environmental benefits as energy saving and pollution reduction. The formulation is based on EWOCream, the innovative W/O emulsifier introduced by Sinerga, a polyglycerol-sorbitan derivative from fatty acids derived from linseed oil, a fluid and versatile ingredient, palm oil free, unique for cold emulsification process.

On stand L30, Cognis will be highlighting its Lamesoft Care products. Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant based skin and hair care applications. Its micronised lipid system offers excellent skin and hair conditioning properties. Particularly strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. Lamesoft Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleised appearance is desired. Due to its ether based lipids, Lamesoft Care can be used in a wide pH-range between 4-11 and therefore in all kinds of body rinse off applications.

Lipo Chemicals (stand D40) has been a worldwide supplier of specialty ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industries since 1962. Visit Stand D40 to learn about the company’s newest products and technologies and their complete line of cosmetic specialty ingredients. Lipo’s commitment to developing new technologies and their dedication to quality in production, distribution and technical support of the products they sell, allows the company to offer unique ingredients to the marketplace. Lipo scientists go to great lengths and depths to find the next big idea in skin care, hair care and colour cosmetics.

Croda (stand L60) is one of the world’s leading global suppliers of speciality raw materials for the personal care industry, working with their customers to meet consumer needs. Supported by proven efficacy testing, Croda’s wide and diverse product range combines functionality with innovation to deliver sophisticated ingredients and actives that meet the needs of specific consumer demands. Over the last decade, Croda’s skin, sun and hair care technologists have opened up new vistas for manufacturers with the creation of unique and patented technologies designed to answer current and future market trends. An optimised mix of natural raw material sourcing, combined with creative chemistry enables Croda to offer exceptional solutions to the challenges facing their customers. Among the products on Croda can discuss with visitors to in-cosmetics Milan will be NatraGem Green Gems, two natural treasures that are approved natural by ECOCERT and offer effective green solutions to emulsification and solubilisation.

CLR (stand B40) is an independent German company based in Berlin, which develops innovative and efficient cosmetic concepts for high-quality actives for skin and hair care. CLR’s main activity is developing biologically active cosmetic ingredients with superior levels of in vitro and in vivo claim substantiation. They company’s strength lies in producing products to help personal care marketers and formulators address the latest trends with confidence in the effectiveness of their brands. CLR’s highly active cosmetic ingredients fill the diverse requirements of skin and hair, such as: protection, stimulation, toning, regeneration, soothing, moisturisation and nutrition.

Fenchem Biotek (stand A60) is a science-based company, which specialises in developing and manufacturing a wide range of active ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products. The company has recently launched a series of innovative products, including HyaMax Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocovet Tocopherols, CellMotive Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin C series. Fenchem has also invested in botanical extracts, such as G-Tea Green tea Extract, Grapurit Grape Seed Extract, Ginktone and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.

French manufacturer, Sophim, will be at in-cosmetics Milan (stand R55), and launching its new product, Organic Biophytosebum, certified by ECOCERT Greenlife. Organic Biophytosebum is a very natural active emollient with dry feel, composed of unsaponifiables, squalene and liquid wax-esters from organic olive oil. Its low molecular weight helps quick penetration into the skin and easy spreading. It restores the lipidic layer and the intercellular cement of the stratum corneum with a very dry and velvety touch like silicones. Clear, transparent and deodorised, it is a smooth carrier for active ingredients, enhancing moisturising, nourishing and anti-ageing properties thanks to its high content in phytosterols, tocopherols, carotenes, triterpenic alcohols. Organic Biophytosebum is non-comedogenic, non-irritant and totally compatible with skin where squalene and esters are major components of the unhydrolysed surface lipids. This Organic grade is obtained through eco-friendly process from sustainable and renewable raw materials.

B&T Company (stand R59) is a world leading company dedicated to the identification, development and industrial production of high quality standardised raw materials based on olive chemistry in the universe of personal care ingredients. B&T Company concentrates its efforts on full-time research and development, manufacturing, patenting and distributing operations in more than 45 countries around the world. B&T Company offers a range of new highly compatible skin emulsifiers, mild surfactants, stabilising agents, emollients and active ingredients. Among the company’s products on show at in-cosmetics Milan will be Olivem 1000 and Sensolene.

In addition to the launch of pioneering cosmetic ingredients, this year for preview at in-cosmetics Milan 2011, Greentech (stand T40) has chosen to perform additional tests on two recent actives: Somitine was developed in order to recharge the “batteries” of cells and thus to speed up the energy cycle into the skin. In fact, Somitine improves the energy metabolism by increasing both respiratory chain and glucose metabolism. The cellular activity and metabolisms are boosted, the cellular regeneration is increased and the skin feels revitalised. Somitine improves skin youth, radiance and skin luminosity. Then, Silidine developed by metabolic induction of a specific fraction of microalga Porphyridium cruentum acting on endothelin-1, induces the constriction of the vasculature. Therefore, this purified fraction containing identified oligosaccharides and essential oligoelements is extremely useful to improving vascular tonicity. Hence, Silidine reduces sensations appearing through heavy legs syndrome and strongly decreases cutaneous dysfunctions (rosacea, oedema, red spots...). Silidine allows products to give a homogenous appearance to facial skin and a pleasant colour complexion.

Res Pharma (stand S40) is a dynamic company with a technological and industrial identity, focused on the production of a complete range of raw materials for the cosmetic industry that includes O/W and W/O emulsifiers, PEG free, liquid crystal and cold process solutions, delicate surfactants, polyglycerol esters, lipidic components, solubilisers, water soluble oils, wet wipes ingredients and concentrated emulsions, active ingredients and ECOCERT products. For many years now, Res Pharma Centro Tecnico has been working with the objective of giving quality technical support to its customers, offering high quality technical pre- and post- sales assistance.

Indena (stand Q39) is launching at in-cosmetics 2011 in Milan, Xilogel, a tamarind polysaccaryde extremely wellcharacterised with a molecular weight of 650.000D. Having a structure similar to hyaluronic acid and the capacity to complex water, it is the ideal candidate for deep hydration products. The clinical assessment of the ingredient, besides preliminary clinical trials confirming the strong hydrating and anti-ageing properties, will be presented to the in-cosmetics audience on Wednesday March 30 at 12.00-12.30 hrs at Innovation Seminar 2.

Slimexir from Rahn (stand K71) effectively refines the silhouette, while fighting excessive fat. Its well-designed composition consists of X-Melt, a synergistic blend of methyl xanthines, extract of artichoke (Cynara scolymus) and the polysaccharide Levan all supporting each other. X-Melt leads to reduced maturation of adipocytes, thus preventing fat uptake into these fat storing cells. Each of Slimexir‘s constituents activates lipolysis, which triggers the fragmentation and decomposition of the existing fat. X-Melt and the artichoke extract stimulate cutaneous microcirculation and promote the transport of the broken-down fat. Furthermore, Levan provides a tightening effect on the skin. If applied regularly, Slimexir has visible and measurable recontouring effects and potently leads to a significant reduction of abdomen volume.

Following the launch of its performance ingredients, Silab (stand Q40) is now offering, as part of its “Silab actives you can’t perform without” range, a multifunctional active ingredient. A natural active ingredient, it guarantees skin homeostasis and ensures vital efficiency in various compartments. Capable of regulating various biological pathways, it provides multiple solutions for imbalances in the skin. Obtained from common vervain, Vitalayer ensures cell homeostasis by maintaining the metabolism of epidermal and dermal cells at an optimum level. Through cross-functional and lateral action, Vitalayer strengthens the skin’s barrier function while also stimulating dermal metabolism. Vitalayer, selected from among 500 possible candidates, is a complete antiageing programme with multiple benefits. The skin is regenerated and hydrated, the micro-relief is smoothed and wrinkles reduced. This versatile active ingredient can be included in all core anti-ageing formulae.

Hayashibara’s (stand T54) commitment to research has led to the development of innovative cosmetics products including two ingredients produced using transglycosylation technology: AA2G and Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin. AA2GTM is a stabilised vitamin C with glucose for brighter, healthier and younger looking skin over a prolonged period of time. Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin is a stabilised hesperidin that promotes healthy skin by improving bad circulation and combating the negative physical effects from environmental stress. MG-60 is multifunctional carbohydrate syrup for smooth texture; a glycerine alternative for sensitive skin, providing additional benefits to skin care, hair care and cleansing products with cell protection. Trehalose is a naturally-occurring disaccharide with odour suppressing properties; protects skin and hair from dehydration under extreme conditions. Pullulan is a natural starch-based polysaccharide renowned for its film-forming and coating abilities; is able to create easily dissolvable film strips and is excellent for long lasting foundations and mascaras.

IMPAG (stand R28) will reveal that several years’ research has led to the discovery of the highly efficient “fat burner” method of Corolea Bio, the combination of two plant extracts (olive leaf and lady’s mantle) standardised in specific active fractions. A new mechanism of action has been identified that acts on the cell’s energy centre, particularly within the adipocytes: the mitochodria via a specific receptor. Corolea Bio boosts the combustion of lipids stored in the adipocytes creating a “fat burner” effect. This is a method never described in cosmetics before. The clinical results show proof of the slimming effects of Corolea Bio. The product is ECOCERT certified. IMPAG will be exhibiting Corolea Bio together with numerous other innovative ingredients for skincare and make-up products at the in-cosmetics 2011 show in Milan.

Mibelle Biochemistry (stand E70) will present LIPerfection, a new ingredient to boost the lips’ volume. The ingredient’s effect is based on a pungent flavour compound that was extracted from mustard shoots. This plant compound, called sinalbin, is known to increase the capillary blood flow and to cause thereby redness and a feeling of warmth when applied to the skin and mucous membranes. The shoots of the mustard plants are especially rich in sinalbin. In a clinical, placebocontrolled study over 14 days with 18 women, a cream with 2% LIPerfection was found to clearly increase the lip volume. Compared to the placebo, the LIPerfection cream induced also an immediate 10% increase in hydration. Laser Doppler measurements showed that the LIPerfection cream was indeed increasing the skin capillary blood flow when applied to the inner side of the forearms. The effect was maximal 15 minutes after application and completely absent in the control cream.

DuPont will be at stand U50 to promote its glycolic acid product, available as DuPont Glypure, which has an established track record in skin care products. Extensive clinical data show that glycolic acid effectively stimulates cellular activity, supporting its use in a wide range of skin care products, including: cell turnover products, moisturising skin lotions, etc. Now, DuPont has investigated the efficacy of Glypure in penetrating the hair shaft and will present novel data proving the moisturisation-like benefits to hair, including softness, breakage resistance, and lubricity. DuPont Polymer Powders Switzerland launches the second generation of its Gotalene RS400 bio-based exfoliating powder, compliant with ECOCERT requirements. This new grade complements the existing range of Gotalene coloured and colourless exfoliating powders, known and appreciated for their effective and very well tolerated mild and medium abrasive properties. This combination of bio-based efficiency will allow formulators to upgrade the functionality of a wide range of natural skin and hair care products.

At in-cosmetics Milan, IRB (stand H36) will present a new green biotech cosmetic ingredient specifically designed to maximise the self protection of the skin from external stresses. Based on Marrubium vulgare cultured stem cells, this product contains forsythoside B, a potent inducer of skin endogenous defence mechanisms by activation of Nrf2 transcription factor. Forsythoside B belongs to phenylpropanoids, natural substances physiologically designed to protect the plants from environmental stresses, that can be obtained by in vitro cultivation of plant cells. In fact plant cell cultures allow sourcing of highly active plant ingredients by a fully eco-sustainable process with a superior level of standardisation and maximised end-user safety. This new product will be showcased at the Innovation Zone and presented in a dedicated Innovation Seminar on 30 March at 12.30 hrs. According to its ecosustainable nature, IRB has been selected to be present at the 2011 in-focus area featuring the theme “sustainable beauty” to show the huge green resource saving achieved in using its biotech ingredients.

At stand H40, Lipotec presents Hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with high water retaining capacity which provides a long-lasting moisturising effect and immediate wrinkle reduction. Hyadisine is an exopolysaccharide achieved by optimised bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez in Brittany, which is rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) than hyaluronic. The high water retaining capacity of Hyadisine offers excellent long-lasting moisturising and immediate anti-wrinkle effect to anti-ageing skin care formulations, reducing lines in only two hours. On show in this year in-cosmetics edition in Milan, Hyadisine is part of Biointec, Lipotec’s brand which, based on microorganisms is able to survive in complex ecosystems and supported by advanced biotechnological technologies, allows for regular and sustainable production of active ingredients with proven cosmetic efficacy.

Sun care

Induchem AG’s (stand E56) business is based on carrier systems and active ingredients. Its product portfolio consists mainly of exfoliants, sun care products and additives. Among the ranges on show will be Uniprotect PT-3, a bioactive complex for the protection of skin proteins, Unirepair T-43, a bioactive complex to counteract environmental skin damage and Unisooth EG-28, a synergistic complex to inhibit skin irritation.

Sunscreen sprays and lotions can benefit in a variety of ways when formulated with the polyurethane dispersion Baycusan C 1000 from Bayer MaterialScience (stand G40). Although the film-forming polymer itself does not contain any UV-absorbing components, it can boost the sun protection factor (SPF). In addition to having a pleasant skin feel, it also stabilises emulsions - important particularly for sprays - and lends sun care products very good water resistance. New, extensive tests underscore the versatile uses of this dispersion, which contains neither cosolvents nor preservatives. They confirm, for example, that the SPF-boosting effect is not restricted to formulations that include the UVB filters octocrylene and ethylhexyl triazone. Baycusan C 1000 also significantly increases the SPF of sample formulations with a protective effect based on UVA/B filters such as bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and benzophenone-3. Baycusan C 1000 also acts as a stabilising raw material for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. Studies show that the polymer reduces particle size and distribution, thereby improving the stability of O/W emulsions. The cosmetic raw materials specialists at Bayer MaterialScience took advantage of this property to develop a sunscreen spray with a very low concentration of emulsifier. This low-viscosity formulation exhibits high water resistance, as confirmed by in vivo tests conducted in accordance with guidelines established by Colipa, the European Cosmetics Association. There are also new findings regarding the film-forming properties of Baycusan C 1000. The polyurethane dispersion was applied to synthetic skin. The resulting film withstood mechanical loads applied to the synthetic skin with virtually no microscopically visible damage, unlike the reference acrylate copolymer film, for instance. Films based on Baycusan C 1000 are very flexible, move with the skin and let it breathe, making sunscreens formulated with this dispersion very comfortable to wear. Bayer MaterialScience will be presenting Baycusan C 1000 and other cosmetic products at the in-cosmetics 2011 trade show.

The HallStar Company (stand G50), a Chicago-based specialty chemistry company, announces the availability of a groundbreaking new ingredient that can improve the performance of all types of sun protection products. HallStar’s SolaStay S1 is a new, more powerful photostabiliser that, when added to sunscreen formulations, can help sunscreen formulators achieve previously unobtainable levels of protection against both the burning and ageing rays of the sun. When exposed to energy from solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation, UV filters like avobenzone break down and lose their effectiveness. To prevent this, formulators add photostabilisers to their products to slow down the degradation. SolaStay S1 uses a different, better process to prevent or slow UV filter degradation, which the company says dramatically outperforms every other photostabiliser in the market. The result is maximised UVA protection and increased SPF.

DSM (stand F40) launches its new skin brightening ingredient Regu-Fade at in-cosmetics. Regu-Fade evens and brightens skin tone using pure, natureidentical resveratol. During a conference at the exhibition, the company will also present the latest scientific findings around stem cells for skin care, including novel approaches to increase their performance in cosmetics. In hair care, the new product range TILAMAR with polymers and actives for styling and conditioning has introduced the most innovative polymers in the industry. In sun care, DSM confirms its established position, offering a high performing UVA and UVB filter portfolio combined with in-depth formulation knowhow and technical support. At the most important European trade show of the cosmetics industry, DSM underscores once more its leadership in skin care, hair care, sun care. It also introduces to Milan a completely new appearance which for the first time shows the future corporate identity of DSM as the Life Sciences and Materials Sciences Company.

Hair care

Evonik (stand M40) will be highlighting its comprehensive range of products which comprise conditioners and thickeners for hair care products, emulsifiers for creams and lotions, secondary surfactants, emollients and active ingredients. Among those on show will be the SK-influx range of skin identical lipid concentrates and Skinmimics, a unique blend of new long chain ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines, which are ideal for mature skin as they provide protection, regeneration and prevention.

Honeywell will be at stand G80 at in-cosmetics Milan and will be promoting two new Asensa ingredients for the personal care industry – a biopolymer that improves hold in hair care products and a thickener for high salt and extreme pH emulsions. The biopolymer, Asensa NFF 11, is derived from corn starch and offers many of the features of synthetic polymers. It has been salon tested in hair-styling gel formulations to show hold and curlresistance control even in very humid conditions. The thickener, Asensa RC 880, provides stability to emulsions that have high electrolyte levels (up to 5% sodium chloride) or to formulations with low pH. RC 880 also provides cushiony sensory aesthetics to lotions and creams These two new products will help solve some of the cosmetics industry’s toughest problems and are an example of how Honeywell’s line of Asensa ingredients continues to grow to meet customers’ needs.

At in-cosmetics, Sederma will be at stand L60 promoting, among others: Kelisoft, which is a hair growth minimiser, efficient on both beards and underarms: it slows down hair growth while refining its diameter. The hair is thus less visible and the need to shave as often is reduced. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, Kelisoft also provides an immediate soothing sensation after hair removal. Kelisoft has been specifically developed for deodorant applications, two versions are available: a water soluble one and Kelisoft OS which is oil soluble. Also, Matrixyl synthe’6 is a new member of the Matrixyl range (along with Matrixyl 3000) that will fullfil women wishes: Matrixyl synthe’6 fills in wrinkles from the inside both on the forehead and the crow’s feet for a visibly smoother and plumper skin. Thanks to its matrikine–like effect, Matrixyl synthe’6 stimulates six major constituents of the skin matrix and the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) and ensures an optimal architecture of the tissue. Finally, Wonderlight offers a new solution to people wishing to reduce irregularities in pigmentation or to lighten their skin complexion. Based on a botanical, Wonderlight acts on both melanocytes and their associated keratinocytes to help lessen pigmentation disorders. It disrupts the Epidermal Melanin Unit cross-talking and blocks the signaling pathways involved in the melanin synthesis. Wonderlight exhibits a stronger effect on hyper pigmented areas and equalises skin pigmentation in order to make them less visible.

Clariant will be focusing on its new youth-focused guide recipes for personal care products set for launch at in-cosmetics 2011. Clariant’s new “youth concept” offers sophisticated answers to the most common beauty and lifestyle issues affecting this market. It enables solutions to acne, oily skin, hydration, dandruff, and sun protection to be integrated into skin and hair care formulations, while formulators can give decorative cosmetics a level of shine and brightness to reflect the joie de vivre of young people. The concept covers a broad range of ingredients suited to the sensitivity of young skin, including those with natural origins, for optimal mildness and skin-friendliness. As a result, the tactile feel, appearance and effectiveness of skin and hair products, as well as decorative cosmetics, can be maximised to leave a refreshed sensation on skin and hair, and a naturally-appealing radiance. Highlights from the latest product innovations at Clariant’s in-cosmetics 2011 stand N40 include vegetable-based products, shine-enhancing emulsifiers, rheology modifiers which provide superb skin sensorics and sulfate-free rinse-off agents. They address young people’s concerns for the use of “healthier” products with fewer or no preservatives, more natural ingredients, and less environmental impact.

Recent acquisitions in China will boost Rhodia’s position in hair conditioning and emerging Asian markets. Leader for its hair conditioning ranges Jaguar, Mirapol, Mackconditioner and Mackine, Rhodia will now complete its portfolio in cationic surfactants to become a global player in hair care. On acquiring Feixiang Chemicals, Rhodia will strengthen its offer in hair conditioning with a new range of cationic surfactants for rinse off conditioners and masks. Re-evaluating the structure, conditioning performance and sensorial benefits of these applications will further enhance its expertise. Rhodia’s recently announced acquisition of a guar derivatives production unit from Suzhou HiPro Polymers in China demonstrates its strive for growth and its intent to be close to customers in Asia. By increasing its capacity of Jaguar, the range derived from vegetable and renewable guar beans Rhodia reinforces its interest and intent in developing sustainable products. See more from Rhodia at stand number E28.

Silicones

Lubrizol (stand K40), with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, is a leading manufacturer of advanced specialty chemicals for personal care products. in-cosmetics 2011 will see the company highlight its Carbopol range of acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high-quality derivatives, lanoline and lanoline derivatives, formulation additives such as nonionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters.

Grant Industries will be at stand B60 to promote Gransil VX-406, a newlylaunched multifunctional water-soluble silicone wax that delivers a lubricious, silky feel to water-based products such as face toners, serums, gels, wipes, and body washes. Gransil VX-406 is distinguished from other commercial waxes by its crystal clear appearance when dissolved in water (at any concentration), and its excellent sensory aesthetics. These advantages are obtained through a unique design of the polymer structure, where a balanced ratio of lipophilic silicone to hydrophilic polyether provides 100% water-solubility without oil droplets or a hazy appearance. In summary, Gransil VX-406 offers enhanced aesthetics and sensory feel for clear face toners, serums, body washes, and wipes/non-wovens. It provides excellent moisturising effect through occlusive silicone structure and is effective at low concentrations (2%-3%) for cost value.

Basildon Chemicals (stand N50) is a UK-based specialist manufacturer of silicone emulsions and compounds. The company is focused on the consumer markets of personal care, pharmaceutical and food. Basildon Chemicals is a well established name in the personal care industries of both Europe and Asia and the company specialises in the supply and manufacture of high quality silicone emulsions and functional silicone fluids for a diverse customer base. With GMP plant and equipment at their disposal, the final result is personal care ingredients of the highest quality.

With an extensive experience in silicones, BRB International BV (stand R12) is one of the largest independent producers in the world who has nowadays gained a unique supplier positioning in personal care. BRB offers the ability to supply cost effective ingredients in all situations and the possibility for buyers to eliminate most single sourcing issues. The company also claims much wider customisation flexibility than some other silicone players. BRB also says it offers greater flexibility and quicker turnaround than many of its competitors. At the same time, BRB’s focus on base R&D, technical field support and unique, customised products differentiates BRB from smaller suppliers and middleman distributors. The development of BRB International BV has always been organic, due to its focus on innovations and to a problem solving approach in its markets. To celebrate this success in the personal care industry, BRB is for the first time independently exhibiting at in-cosmetics in Milan, on 29-31 March 2011.

Dow Corning’s expertise in silicone technology creates materials that deliver the multiple benefits consumers want today from their skin care and hair care products. Recent innovations in skin care, colour cosmetics and sun care include silicone organic elastomer blends that combine the luxurious, dry, smooth, silky feel of silicone elastomer gels with a wider range of organic ingredients and actives; highlight efficient thickeners and sebum absorbers and naturally derived solutions such as soy waxes. New in hair care are materials that help add volume, offer colour and heat protection, strengthening and conditioning. Dow Corning is planning to attend the in-cosmetics tradeshow in Milan and will be featuring two new products; Dow Corning EL 8052 IH Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend that has improved compatibility and formulation flexibility with organic and active ingredients in skin care, sun care and cosmetic formulations and Dow Corning CE 7080 Smart Style that covers conditioning and styling benefits combined for leave-in conditioner and styling applications. You can find Dow Corning at the show at stand number M30.

Preservatives

With the Dermosoft range, Dr. Straetmans (stand L79) is a pioneer in using multifunctional additives with high performance antimicrobial properties to formulate mild and safe cosmetics. With decades of experience in preservation of all kinds of products, a tailor-made solution is available for every product concept. Dr. Straetmans accompanies customers at each stage of product development, from concept through evaluation to finished product. Challenge tests are offered to ensure successful formulation projects with customers. The company’s Dermofeel range will also be on show on the stand.

Lonza’s (stand U32) innovative Geogard preservatives and multifunctional actives are ECOCERT, NaTrue and Soil Association approved for use in certified organic cosmetics. The company’s Polyaldo polyglycerol esters are biodegradable, free of 1,4 dioxane and are generally recognised as safe (GRAS). They provide an effective alternative for polysorbates, PEG esters and linear alcohol ethoxlates in applications including, natural emulsifiers, viscosity enhancers, moisturisers and solubilisers.

Naturals

UK distributor, Cornelius, has been working closely with Lonza and Soil Association Certification Ltd to explore and develop the idea of an approved list of materials which would be accessible to formulators and developers making the selection of materials for products to be certified to the Soil Association standards quicker and simpler. Cornelius is the first supplier in the UK cosmetic industry to have achieved the formal approval of the Soil Association. The newly approved range includes preservatives, polyglycerol esters, and natural multifunctional ingredients (also permitted by ECOCERT and submitted for NaTrue approval). Cornelius has an extensive portfolio of natural and organic ingredients (ECOCERT and organic certified, cold process, natural derived etc.) available to provide solutions for any products under the popular natural and organic trend. The recent innovations include the Vegerite series from Strahl & Pitsch: 100% natural, vegetable derived, specifically developed to offer an efficient alternative to petroleum hydocarbon derived ozokerite wax.

Burgundy Botanical Extracts’ (stand F74) latest launch, Botany Care, will be on show at in-cosmetics 2011. The range offers the high quality botanical extract (Botany) and purified extracts (BotanySelect): aloe vera, centella, hibiscus, licorice, harpagophytum p., chamomilla, enriched organic acids from flowers or fruits, nettle and echinacea with studies of efficiency. All the ingredients are supported by accurate scientific research and documentation, and are designed to bring visible benefits.

Since 1947, the French company, Laboratoires PROD’HYG located west side of Paris, has brought their expertise to the cosmetic industry in the fields of raw materials and technical innovation In 2004, their new factory brought to Laboratoires PROD’HYG a modern site and reinforced the R&D centre and the quality control laboratory. The company dedicates its work to develop, manufacture, trade and distribute a wide range of traditional and genuine products. LETICC is the botanical extraction unit of Laboratoires PROD’HYG and it is one of the major manufacturers of vegetal actives and extracts for the cosmetics industry.

Cosmetochem International (stand N30) is a Swiss-based company, specialised in the production of high quality, customised botanical extracts and actives. The company has an extensive list of extracts which exist in both liquid (Herbasol & Herbamilk) and dry powder (Herbasec) forms and are sold internationally to all major cosmetic and toiletry manufacturers in over 60 countries worldwide. With their flexible manufacturing approach, their in-depth knowledge of plant properties and an extensive raw material base, it is Cosmetochem’s aim to produce fast, innovative solutions which will meet the unique requirements of both the technical and marketing departments of theircustomers.

AAK (stand Q79) is a world leading manufacturer of vegetable lipid ingredients. The company’s advanced technology makes it possible to offer the purest ingredients with long shelf life and biological functionality. AAK’s expertise in lipid chemistry is behind the unique Lipex products – and is shared with customers in joint projects and in the AAK Academy. In August 2003, AAK developed the “book and claim” method, which reduced the need for separation of different shipments, by allowing certified plantations to sell their certificates separately from the certified palm oil. The GreenPalm programme for trading in certificates was set up to promote the production of sustainable palm oil. Palm oil producers using sustainable methods and certified by the RSPO can earn extra money by selling GreenPalm certificates. Retailers, food companies and other final-stage customers actively support and encourage the sustainable production of palm oil by buying certificates.

Bertin (stand G50) has been a wellknown supplier of the European cosmetic and neutraceutic industries for many years. The company was created in 1936 and is based in the north of Paris. The company continuously identifies new sources of raw materials (seeds, nuts, fruits) to produce natural and innovative products. At in-cosmetics 2011, Bertin will be promoting its new products from 2010 and 2011. These include: virgin oils such as Virgin Hibiscus Oil (moisturising oil), Sandalwood Nut Oil (an anti ageing product); Organic oils, including Broccoli Oil (silicone like), Cranberry Oil (equilibrated composition), refined oils, including Chia Oil (70% GLA content, anti-inflammatory properties); macerates, such as Tea & Rooibos, Goji, Vanilla macerates.

Actichem is a market leader in the production of vine extracts containing resveratrol and resveratrol derivatives for use in nutricosmetics and cosmetics. Actichem is launching Vitisin, a new skin lightening ingredient extracted from vine roots. The active principles Vitisin A and Vitisin B are potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The effects of creams containing Vitisin on skin lightening and the reduction of hyperpigmented spots have been proved by two clinical studies. Actichem will also present the natural versions of Resveratrox (anti-ageing) and Viniferol (slimming) approved by ECOCERT Greenlife according to the ECOCERT standards for natural and organic cosmetics. Actichem is represented by Jan Dekker International and will be available to discuss their products at stand E40.

Danisco, a leader in industrial biotechnology is a manufacturer of natural betaine, (chemical name: trimethylglycine), produced from sugar beet molasses. A safe and gentle osmoprotectant, and an easy amphoteric osmolyte, it is a true water carrier with multifunctional properties in formulations and it also fulfills the most important natural certificates. At work inside the hair, betaine is a small, water soluble molecule, that penetrates and gives moisture to the hair adding flexibility and making hair stronger and more glossy. It conditions the hair and reduces the irritancy caused by surfactants. The newest research work shows that betaine improves tight junction integrity and contributes to skin barrier and hydration status, maintaining cell water balance in skin cells. Betaine also has clinically proven efficacy in oral care. Use of betaine reduces irritancy, gives more moisture and better and more pleasant mouth feeling.

Innovative active ingredients supplier BiotechMarine (stand L80) is known and recognised for its expertise in the world of top marine active ingredients and skin engineering. It has demonstrated the benefits of using specific algal substances in cosmetic applications. Indeed, the company offers cosmetic laboratories a very complete and qualitative collection of over 40 bioactive substances designed for anti-ageing, moisturising, make-up, sun, hair, spa and specific care. Each ingredient is tested using state-ofthe- art techniques coupled with imaging device or clinical methods.

Waxes

Jeen International (stand S12) is a leading supplier and manufacturer of specialty chemicals serving the cosmetic, personal care, fragrance and pharmaceutical industries. The company supplies innovative, patented, advanced specialty silicone, linear polyethylene and preservative lines with state-of-the-art technology in inventory management, and full product technical support. At in-cosmetics 2011 Jeen will be promoting its Cold Process Wax (CPW) range which reduces energy costs, conserves water and saves time. Manufacturing CPW emulsions requires one mixing vessel and CPW emulsions do not require heating, therefore no cooling is necessary. Heat sensitive materials, such as active ingredients are safe in CPW-prepared emulsions and volatile oils become more of an option when heating is taken out of the manufacturing process.

Colour cosmetics

Also showcasing a number of brand new product launches will be BASF (stand L40). The company’s product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colorants, stabilisers, and surfactants. At in-cosmetics 2011, BASF will be presenting Tinosorb S Aqua, a new UV filter for the water phase, with the same high-tech broad spectrum technology as Tinosorb S. In addition, the company will be highlighting its MultiReflections Soft Sparkle, Pigments, provide elegant colour travel and sophisticated soft sparkle effects.

Vivimed Labs (stand F28), James Robinson Ltd and Har-met International have joined together as a truly global team under the Vivimed name. Offering a range of products for oral, sun, skin and hair care, the company continues to take pride in the knowledge and expertise that comes from being leading suppliers to the world’s most creative companies. Products offered include Etone, a highly effective SPF booster; VIntox, for anti ageing; Vividine, a proven hair growth active; and Vivinol, for skin lightening and age spot reduction. Their full range of hair dyes is marketed under the renowned Jarocol trade name.

Omnova Solutions will be launching Lytron 20P, a highly efficient powdered styrene/acrylic polymeric modifier for use in decorative cosmetics. Having a large particle size, it is designed to impart a smooth, comfortable feel with extended playtime during use. The unique composition of Lytron 20P and its wide compatibility with other raw materials makes it suitable for use in a variety of cosmetics applications such as foundations and pressed powders. The product has very low residual monomer leading to an undetectable odour and was found to have no effect when tested for irritant causes to the skin. The INCI name for Lytron 20P is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (and) Styrene/ Acrylates Copolymer and demonstration samples, as well as guideline formulations will be available at the Azelis Personal Care and LCM Trading SpA booths (M50 and S80).

Powder and dispersion specialist, Kobo, will be at stand E50 to discuss their innovative, technology-based raw materials. These include non-nano TiO2 and ZnO composites, dispersions and powders which are transparent, have high SPF and PFA results, with various carriers available. Also, ECOCERT approved products, such as jojoba ester treated pigments, cellulose fibres and silica microspheres. Kobo’s polymethylsilsesquioxane microspheres enhance feel, provide optical blurring and are available in various particle sizes. Kobo offers global manufacturing sites, including its corporate headquarters in South Plainfield, NJ (US), Kobo SAS (Labege/Toulouse, France) and Kobo Dispatek (Utsunamiya, Japan). Wetting agents are well known in many applications, but in colour and sun cosmetics their use is still limited to a very few products. Especially in colour cosmetics which are based on lipophilic matrices it is difficult to improve the dispersion of pigments.

The Sebumol PCA esters from Zschimmer & Schwarz (stand A50) offer the possibility of pigment wetting in an oil matrix as they are lipophilic molecules with high wetting effect. The Sebumol PCA esters improve the dispersing process by significantly influencing the particle separation process which allows a less energy consuming procedure. Perfectly separated pigment particles show an improved light reflection and therefore optimised colour and pearlescent effects. Together with their use as humectants the Sebumol PCA esters are the kind of future orientated ingredients which combine the possibility of increased sustainability in processes and functional effects in the finished product.

X-Rite will demonstrate how cosmetic companies are now applying advanced quality control techniques to precisely measure and control formulas for colour and appearance. Attendees of the incosmetics 2011 show can view demonstrations and obtain information on the new offerings at X-Rite’s stand at Q01 of the Fiera Milano Rho. Vannacci is scheduled to give a presentation titled “Advanced methods to accurately measure and communicate the colour of cosmetics” at 15.30 hrs, 30 March at the show as part of its Innovation Seminars.

Surfactants

 Innospec (stand F59) is an international specialty chemicals company providing products and technologies to a range of markets. Innospec’s personal care division manufactures the Finsolv emollients, the Pureact mild surfactants and Iselux, the novel and unique transparent sulfate-free surfactant. Innospec blends science with creativity to develop products that are totally focused on customer needs. The company designs their materials to enhance performance and create consumer desire for the end-product. The results of this work can be found in a wide range of everyday products from skin cleansers, anti-perspirants and moisturisers through to sunscreens, shampoos and hair conditioners.

KCI (stand P34) specialises in raw materials for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, sunscreen cream, face moisturiser and nail polish. At in-cosmetics 2011 the company will be highlighting its Cationic Surfactants, Amine Amide series, Polyquat and Guarquat series and its high qualified resin for nail lacquer.

Colonial Chemical will join leaders in the cosmetics and toiletries industry in Milan, Italy for in-cosmetics 2011. Colonial Chemical will feature groundbreaking products from their Poly Suga Mate, Poly Suga Betaine, and Poly Suga Nate product lines. These innovative surfactants and betaines are derived from natural and “green” starting materials. Suga Nate 160 is a standout in the Poly Suga Mate product line for its milder, non-irritating characteristics. Also featured will be the safe, non-ethoxylated series of various HLB emulsifies, Poly Suga Mulse. Visit Colonial Chemical on Akott stand G50 to learn about their full range of safe, naturally-derived surfactants.

 Software

Visit Coptis and its new agents in Italy, ITM Agency s.r.l, during the in-cosmetics 2011 show in Milan at stand number D91 and benefit from live demonstrations of their software solutions. New functions and features are now integrated in the Coptis Lab software package include MOS calculation, MSDS printings for raw materials and formula as well as customisable printings of cosmetic regulatory files, etc. The database, Coptis Ingredients, now describes more than 8,500 cosmetic raw materials developed through partnerships with cosmetic manufacturers. This comprehensive database is updated three times a year and is available online on annual subscription. In addition to the company’s applications, it also provides valuable services that increase their performance such as an integrated regulatory database elaborated through regulatory groups and based on clients’ expertise. Also constant improvement of products, taking benefit from cosmetic expertise, Users Club or direct recommendations from users