Over the last 20 years, the personal care industry has embraced and encouraged the use of natural ingredients and, in particular, plant derived vegetable oils. Natural oils have found their place in what is an innovative, diverse and ever changing market which, every year, brings new and often exciting challenges.
Many such ingredients are employed merely as a marketing tool, used in small amounts to purvey a sense of natural health and wellbeing. Others are used as truly functional materials, delivering real benefit to the skin. This trend-driven industry often compromises its desire to use so called “naturals” with the commercial needs of the marketplace, resulting in only small amounts of naturals being used in order to meet a price point for the end product. Nevertheless, the push to incorporate ingredients from natural sources has seen a significant rise in the quantity and diversity of the raw materials used as well as the distances some materials travel before they reach the point of use. Producing and supplying materials which are “on trend”, e.g. organic, can accumulate a substantial number of road and air miles, thereby incurring a significant carbon footprint. One has to question, therefore, the true environmental advantage in using some materials when the fuel emissions incurred are so high. Is it not better to use locally sourced ingredients, which provide the same or better functionality, where possible? Local sourcing should be considered alongside other policies (such as Organic & Fair Trade) by the cosmetic formulator when looking for new ideas. Here, we seek to highlight some advantages in using UK produced ingredients that have, in many cases, added environmental benefits.
Why source UK?
Diversity of raw materials/ short supply chain
The UK has a broad array of natural resources, broader than many may realise. The growing conditions particularly suit the production of high value oilseeds and, in addition, there is a variety of by-products of other industries from which functional cosmetic emollient oils can be extracted. In simple terms, we have good product diversity combined with the agronomic, operational and technical expertise, within a relatively small area. This can lead to a supply chain that is shorter, easier to manage, more traceable and which delivers a fresher product with a lower carbon footprint.
Sustainability and biodiversity
With some oilseed crops, the dependence on bee pollination is critical. In return, the crops provide the right environment for sustaining a healthy insect population. Our Bee friendly project highlights this mutual interdependence. It has been established to demonstrate the value certain plants, such as starflower (Borago officinalis), have in sustaining a healthy honey bee population through the late summer, while also being the source of a functional cosmetic ingredient. It is well known that the bee population is in decline, but crops such as borage can play a significant role in arresting this. Borage flowers provide a great food source for the bees, helping build up the winter food reserves. In return, the crop’s development is significantly improved, with yields increasing by as much as 25%. An added value output of growing borage is that the bee hives placed on the crop produce a unique and highly nutritious honey, that can be used in both food and cosmetics. Such “mono-floral” honey is a premium value, quality material which gives the beekeeper a much needed source of additional income This is a prime example of a crop that has several added value outputs while also playing a key role in biodiversity and improving the local economy.
Innovation and scale to meet the market demands
Growing crops in the UK can be a challenging process; persuading farmers to try something different but with only a limited guarantee of a good return is a hard sell to make. However, there are many entrepreneurial farmers who will take a chance on growing novel crops as part of their annual rotation and especially on tracts of land that are on the margins of the larger fields. We have seen many “firsts” here, the development of many specialist crops started in the UK, evening primrose being a good example. Equally, the volume of oils used in the cosmetic industry generally lends itself to production on the small to medium scale, without adversely affecting the production of essential food crops. Furthermore, we have seen interest from consumers and trade organisations alike to broaden the range of natural and organic speciality oilseed crops that can be grown in the UK and we are actively looking at this for 2011 and beyond. Northstar Lipids’ UK Origins project is aimed at users who have a real interest in looking for UK sourced materials, which are diverse in range, have environmental benefits, and which, by nature, are much easier to trace to their point of origin. As part of the project, end users are also encouraged to meet with the growers in order that they get a feel for the challenges faced and the benefits obtained. The feedback obtained from customers leads to research into, and development of, new crops or variants of existing materials that may better suit the end use or market trend. As an example, a healthy crop of organic crambe abyssinica has recently been established, from which a cold pressed certified organic oil will be produced specifically for skin care. Crambe oil is a fantastic product, it has enhanced slip and skin feel and offers is a real alternative to some synthetics such as silicones. In summary, by developing the partnership between the end market and the source, we are better able to respond to their mutual needs and raise awareness of the advantages that can be obtained.
Products with added functionality
Mother Nature has blessed the UK with rich, fertile soil and the right climate to produce crops richer in essential nutrients than in some other regions. In particular, the UK has the right environment for growing speciality oilseed crops that contain higher levels of the more “active” or functional lipids. Starflower (borage) oil is a good example. It is a great skin emollient, being the richest natural source of gamma linolenic acid (GLA), 2.5 times more GLA than evening primrose oil in fact, especially if sourced from the northern regions of England. Its value has been recognised in specialist nutrition for some time, but it is equally at home in skin care, especially in hydrating and dry skin creams. In particular, oils containing GLA have been shown to help improve dry skin conditions and help treat inflammatory disorders such as eczema. Furthermore, using borage oil leads to environmental side benefits such as those explained above; growing the crop can significantly help the development of healthy bee colonies at a time when they are in decline.
Added value use of waste streams
By-products of other industries are another useful resource, extracting a potentially higher value material from an otherwise waste stream. Examples include wheatgerm, as well as the various fruit seeds available. The UK produces large amounts of vitamin C-rich blackcurrant juice, the byproduct of which is a pulp that contains the dark purple seed. Blackcurrant seed oil is rich in essential fatty acids and more “active” lipids which are more effective skin conditioners (GLA & SDA). It is an oil which, in our opinion, is underutilised in personal care and for which there is good existing raw material supply. Furthermore, it is a great example of an added value use of an otherwise waste product.
Summary and conclusions
There are many sound ethical and technical arguments to be made for using natural ingredients sourced from across the globe and we certainly do not have the environment in the UK to grow everything that the cosmetic industry might need. However, at a time when issues such as sustainability, biodiversity, low carbon footprint and traceability are hot topics, we believe that UK Origin materials can fulfil many of the ethical, technical and environmental demands that the personal care market appears to be making when sourcing novel natural ingredients. The UK has a bounty of raw materials, the expertise to produce and develop new functional ingredients from both novel crops and by-product streams and in some cases, a real tangible environmental benefit is derived from growing them.
• For more information on UK Origins, the Bee Friendly Project and formulation ideas, please visit www.northstarlipids.co.uk
