Alternative gloss agent for Asian hair

Hydro-balance for damaged hair A test for hydro-balance on damaged hair (bleached hair with 5% dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate, lanolin and placebo) showed that the water amount of hair treated with dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate was higher than with lanolin. To measure the water amount on the hair, the Karl Fisher method was used (Fig. 1).

Shine in vitro measurement of gloss index In order to measure the gloss index in vitro, the intensity of the reflected light angle dissolved was analysed (Fig. 2). As a benchmark, a special care conditioner was chosen that claims to penetrate into and repair hair damaged by colorants, dryers and perms (benchmark INCI: water, stearyl aclohol, amodimethicone, behentrimonium chloride, isopropyl alcohol, fragrance, benzyl alcohol, pantenyl ethyl ether, EDTA-2Na, pantenol, lysine HCL, sodium hydroxide, histidine, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone). The gloss performance results verify that a formulation with Cutina Shine has the same increase in gloss index as lanolin and the benchmark.

In vivo comparison of gloss performance For the third screening method, the in vivo comparison test, three tresses of Asian hair per comparison were put under standardised light resembling daylight in a dark room, so that one side of each tress was exposed in a standardised way (Fig. 3). Two hair tresses per formulation were tested, and a selected panel of 25 people assessed hair gloss by rating which tress showed more brightness than the other. The ranking of each of the three tresses proves that the conditioner with dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate has a similar gloss to a formulation with lanolin and a significantly better gloss than the used benchmark conditioner.
 
Wet and dry combing performance In the last screening test wet and dry combing forces were detected (Fig. 4). The wet and dry combing method measures forces using human hair strands. The combing work after treatment was divided by the combing work before treatment to calculate the residual combing work. The wet combing results of a formulation with dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate compared to the formulations with lanolin and the benchmark were on the same level. The dry combing forces showed the same results for lanolin and dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate and a lower value for the benchmark.