Today, consumers prefer sunscreens with high protection values. Over the years, the best selling category shifted more and more to even higher SPF numbers. An SPF of 30 is now the standard, but there is also a significant segment in the area of SPF 50 and higher.
In addition, the industry and authorities have created new claims for UVA protection. Even the measurement and data analysis systems differ between the US, the EU and Japan. The formulator needs to consequently incorporate significant amounts of UVA filters so that the system passes locally required claims. Therefore, modern sunscreens often contain a high loading of UV filters, which of course puts pressure on the sensory attributes of the formulation. To find a balance between performance and skin feel is an ongoing battle. A high performance sunscreen with only “reasonable” attributes might be used too sparingly and may not be purchased at all again. It is important to look for strategies to improve skin feel while keeping performance high.
Strategies to improve skin feel
There are several of strategies to improve sensory attributes in high performance sunscreens:
• Look for synergistic actions between UV filters that will reduce oil loading.
• Use silicone-based UV filters.
• Optimise the amount of particulate filters such as organic or inorganic pigments.
• Use specific emulsifier systems and emulsion structures.
• Achieve good photo-stability and formulation stability in order to utilise incorporated materials to the full extent.
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