A pilot project by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has found that 6% of cosmetic products inspected between November 2023 and April 2024 in 13 European Economic Area (EEA) countries contained banned substances.
National enforcement authorities in the 13 countries checked nearly 4,500 cosmetic products, mainly looking at the ingredients list, for the presence of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), long chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (PFCAs) and related substances, and cyclic siloxanes D4 and D5.
The authorities found that 285 of the inspected cosmetics included hazardous chemicals whose use is banned in these products. Those found were:
- Perfluorononyl dimethicone
- Perfluorooctylethyl triethoxysilane
- Perfluorononylethyl carboxydecyl PEG-10 dimethicone; and
- Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclomethicone (a blend of D4, D5 and D6), cyclotetrasiloxane (D4)
These chemicals are banned in cosmetics because they have been identified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) or (very) persistent, (very) bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT/vPvB) that adversely affect human health and the environment.
Their use is banned under the Stockholm Convention on POPs or restricted under the REACH Regulation.
Based on national experience perfluorononyl dimethicone was primarily found in eyeliners and lipliners, in pencil or crayon form. D4 and D5 were found in hair conditioners and hair masks.
For example, perfluorononyl dimethicone degrades into PFOA and long chain perfluorocarboxylic acids. PFOA and siloxanes, D4 and D5, break down slowly in the environment and build up in humans and other species.
PFOA is not only persistent in the environment but also toxic to reproduction and suspected of causing cancer. D4 is also suspected of damaging fertility.
"The inspections were mainly done by checking the ingredients list - measures that can be easily used also by consumers," said the ECHA in a statement.
"Consumers should be aware that the restricted substances were found in different types of cosmetic products, from various sellers and at all price ranges," it added.
The enforcement authorities have taken measures to remove the non-compliant products from the market.
In most cases, the first step was issuing written advice to guide suppliers on how to comply with the law.
Investigations are still ongoing in about half of the cases.
