Investigating naturally derived silicone alternative

ABSTRACT

Fision® EcoSil, composed of Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiable, is a naturally derived ingredient from olive oil, proposed as an alternative to traditional silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane and low viscosity dimethicone. These studies explore the physicochemical properties and performance characteristics of this olive-derived ester in hair and skin care applications. Various comparative analyses and instrumental evaluations were performed, including consumer assessment of hair and skin sensory attributes, wet hair combing, hair shine on UV damaged hair, and solubility comparisons. In hair care formulations, the upcycled silicone alternative improves manageability, ease of wet and dry combing, and shine. The consumer assessment results indicate that the olive derived ester exhibits a similar hair sensory profile to cyclopentasiloxane. In skin care applications, it provides increased smoothness, softness, and moisturization compared to dimethicone. The olive-derived ester also shows compatibility with a greater range of oils than dimethicone. The study results suggest that the olive derived ester is a viable natural alternative to silicones, offering comparable sensory and performance benefits, with the additional advantage of sustainability.

Silicones have been important ingredients in hair care shampoos, conditioners, colourants, and styling products, functioning as either emollients, humectants, film formers, anti-foaming agents, anti-static agents, or binding agents.¹