Clariant is highlighting the ability of its VitiSpheres R8 carrier system to use higher concentrations of retinol safely in skin care creams and serums.
In VitiSpheres R8, retinol molecules are held within the solid-lipid core of a leak-proof multilayered capsule.
The Swiss firm said the patented system protects the retinol from oxidation, ensuring very good stability in formulations compared to benchmark systems.
This maintains bioavailability of the retinol, and reduces the potential loss of beneficial properties both during formulating as well as over a long shelf life.
Importantly, the retinol is only released on skin contact at skin temperature.
The encapsulated ingredient melts on application and opens the pathway for retinol to be released smoothly and gradually into the skin where it will be most effectively taken up, avoiding the potential of a sudden irritation-inducing retinol overload even at high concentrations.
“While consumers across all generations are increasingly seeking out retinol for its benefit in reducing the appearance of wrinkles…it can cause irritations when not properly dosed, and it is not stable in cosmetic formulations, meaning its properties can degrade prior to application,” said Clariant global application development manager Thomas Lukowicz.
“VitiSpheres R8 overcomes these challenges: it stabilizes the retinol in formulations over time and enables a controlled, prolonged release into the epidermis skin layer where it will be most effective,” he added.
