Retinol is well-established in cosmetics as an anti-ageing ingredient. It is known to increase cell proliferation and production of extracellular matrix elements such as hyaluronic acid. Anti-ageing products containing retinol may therefore decrease the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture. Unfortunately, retinol also suffers from chemical instability and the potential to irritate skin. To circumvent these issues, several derivatives of retinol have been developed with improved stability while still retaining the anti-ageing effects. The derivatives contain unsaturated fatty acids, either purified linoleic acid or a blend derived from sunflower seed oil. A comparative in vitro study was conducted to compare the effect of different test materials on human dermal fibroblast proliferation and production of hyaluronic acid. The test materials included retinol and three different esters of retinol (Retinyl sunflowerseedate, Retinyl linoleate, and Retinyl palmitate).
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