Azelaic acid: multifunctional active for African skin care

In this article, some specific characteristics of African dark skin are summarised together with the main features of the active substance azelaic acid. According to them it is concluded that azelaic acid is a multifunctional active that can find significant application in the formulation of skin care products intented for the African market. In addition, the preparation tips of a formulation (oil free serum) containing 10% of an ultra-pure, micronised, 100% obtained from sunflower oil ingredient are discussed. 

Not all skin is the same. This is one of the key challenges in the development of a successful global cosmetic formulation. For example, the same skin disease can look very different in Caucasian versus African skin.

Skin colour produces many variations in skin care needs. All colours of skin possess melanin, but the differences arise from how the melanin is packaged within the skin. This difference in melanin packaging gives rise to light and dark skin. It is well known the pigmentation problems common in African skin are not usual in northern Europeans. Thus, issues of ethnicity and skin colour must be always considered when formulating skin care products for a global market.