Effects of hydrolysed jojoba esters on textured hair

The objective was to evaluate the hair conditioning benefits provided by Floraesters K-100® Jojoba [INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)], within a rinse-out hair conditioner, on textured and non-textured hair.

This was done ex vivo on hair tresses by evaluating wet comb force, hair breakage, hair shine, style protection (i.e. frizz reduction and curl retention), and heat protection. The data demonstrated positive benefits provided by Floraesters K100 Jojoba to textured hair as well as nontextured hair, including reductions in comb force and hair frizz, and increases in hair shine. The jojoba-derived ingredient was consistently more effective on textured hair than non-textured hair, most likely due to the substantivity it provided the vehicle rinse-out conditioner. Additionally, it was also able to provide style longevity and heat protection.

Floraesters K-100 Jojoba [which will be referred to as hydrolysed jojoba esters (HJE) throughout the paper] is a natural conditioning agent ideal for use in hair conditioner formulas due to its substantive nature and deposition after rinse-off. Previous literature1 has explored its use as a hair conditioning agent (e.g. reduced wet comb force and provided colour protection) on European hair types; however, no work has been done on textured hair types and very little work has been done on its ability to provide style and heat protection in rinse-off hair care formulations. Textured hair, and particularly African textured hair types, has seen far less research than European hair types; and with gaining popularity of women in the black community going natural, 2 there is an unmet need for ingredients and research to support this hair type. This current research will explore the diversity of HJE within a rinse-off hair conditioner application

Hair conditioning benefits

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