Our skin encounters different stresses during the day. In addition to UV radiation, which can be blocked by SPF, the skin is exposed to environmental pollution as well as different wavelengths that can also damage the skin, namely infrared and high energy visible (HEV) light. Infrared (IR) is the long wavelength part of the solar radiation which reaches the earth surface.
Recent studies showed that IR radiation is involved in photo-aging of the skin. It was found that IR radiation leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the mitochondria of fibroblast cells. This in turn induced an upregulation of the matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), an enzyme which cuts collagen and elastin fibres in human skin.
HEV light, also called blue light, is visible light at a wavelength close to UV which is high in energy but not blocked by UV filters. It is produced in high amounts by digital screens from TVs, PCs and smartphones. HEV light penetrates deeper into the skin than UV light, but also has a higher level of energy than IR light which means there is a greater potential for skin damage to occur via ROS production.
InfraGuard [INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract, Propylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol and Aqua/Water] from Mibelle, combines an extract of organic sunflower sprouts with Caesalpinia spinosa tannins. The sunflower sprout extract was found to support overall health of mitochondria and the Caesalpinia spinosa tannins are highly efficient, stable antioxidants.
The technique of electron spin resonance spectroscopy was used to analyse the antioxidant activity of InfraGuard. InfraGuard was found to be almost as active as vitamin C. But the latter is known to be very unstable once in solution. InfraGuard outperforms other natural antioxidants such as resveratrol or green tea by a factor of ten or more. Further in vitro studies demonstrated a protective effect of InfraGuard for skin cells irradiated with infrared and HEV light as well as for cells exposed to particulate matter. Treatment with InfraGuard decreases ROS and MMP-1 production and protects mitochondrial integrity.
For a clinical trial, 32 volunteers were selected which spent summer holidays in a warm, sunny climate for 2 – 6 weeks. They applied an SPF30 sun cream with 2% InfraGuard onto the inner side of the forearm twice daily during the entire vacation time. The same cream without InfraGuard (placebo) was applied onto the other forearm. Before and after the holidays, skin firmness and density were measured. After vacation, skin firmness and density were deteriorated on the skin area where only the sun cream was applied. Use of 2% InfraGuard not only protected the skin, but even improved it in the mentioned parameters.
The results definitely demonstrate the contribution of IR exposure in skin ageing. Especially creams with UV sunscreens which are used to spend a longer time exposed to sunlight, should be combined with an active for protection against IR radiation. As an added benefit, InfraGuard also delivers a protection against the harmful influences of urban pollution and computer screens.
