The base formula of a cosmetic product contributes greatly to its success, not only in terms of the pleasure it provides upon application but also in terms of efficacy. The base must not be considered only as the sensorial part of a formula but also as a key element to improve the clinical results.
Used first in the cosmetic industry for their emulsifying properties and sophisticated skin feel, phospholipid- based emulsifiers offer much more than that. Thanks to the different chemical and biological properties of phospholipids, phospholipid-based formulas can also be considered to provide active properties due to their moisturising action, and act as a bioavailability enhancer due to their ability to improve the skin penetration of the active ingredients they contain.
Phospholipids are essential constituents of the cell membranes of all living organisms. Organised in bilayers, they form a selective and protective barrier which regulates cell life.1 In a topical application, phospholipids have therefore a strong affinity with the stratum corneum and are able to reinforce it. Then, they help to maintain the skin healthy condition by improving its hydration. The moisturising effect provided by phospholipid- based emulsifiers allows a 100% active cosmetic product with a complementary action from both the base and the active ingredients it contains.
On the other hand, the improvement of the efficacy of a cosmetic product in terms of rapidity and performance is requested by cosmetic brands to better meet consumers’ expectations. This topic is more and more scientifically investigated in order to better understand the behaviour of a cosmetic product on the skin and its related consequences on efficacy. Due to their biomimetism and skin-identical composition, phospholipid-based emulsions improve active ingredient skin penetration and bioavailability in order to get better and faster results.
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