Steve Pearce is an acclaimed innovator and lecturer in food science. He is an author of many papers and a frequent presenter at international conferences while also acting as an adviser to a diverse range of commercial clients, specialising in creating unique ingredients, fragrances and flavours for food & drink manufacturers, cosmetics & household consumer products.
Pearce is a Chartered Scientist and was recently awarded the status of Certified Food Scientist by the Institute of Food Technologists in the US. He is also a Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry, a member of the British Society of Perfumers, Past President of The British Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Past President of The British Society of Flavourists, which in 1989 awarded Steve the William Littlejohn Memorial Silver Medal. As an expert in recreating ‘extinct and impossible’ aromas, Steve Pearce recreated the odour of Cleopatra’s hair, “The Last Meal of a Condemned Man” and the smell of moon dust for an art exhibition.
PC: What are the problems commonly faced by formulators when working with essential oils?
SP: Firstly the name ‘essential oil’ helps explain some issues. The materials are oil soluble, so use in aqueous formulations are limited by solubility and stability. Some oils also contain components prone to oxidation, such as aldehydes, and these will need to be protected with antioxidants. Other problems are going to be related to having supply of consistent quality materials - adulteration by uncontrolled and unscrupulous traders is well known and needs to be watched for. Any formulator should be careful to specify 100% pure and natural unless semi-synthetic, cut, diluted or technical qualities are acceptable because of price.
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