New hair care ingredients

Download PDF version of article

Soliance will be revealing new ingredients for hair care at in-cosmetics 2013: Glossyliance, the ‘ultimate’ shine ingredient; Sophogreen, the green solubiliser and Appygreen 812, the sustainable surfactant.

Using a combination of white and green technologies, Soliance has created the ‘ultimate’ shine active ingredient: Glossyliance. Composed of extracts of sugar cane and lemon zest, obtained with a mix of alpha hydroxy acids, this delicate and natural blend is a veritable beauty enhancer for hair. The hairs were observed along the distal zone under a Scanning Electron Microscope. The use of a shampoo with 5% of Glossyliance was found to smoothe the hair’s scales. A clinical trial was carried out on 80 volunteers. The effects of different products on hair shine were double- blind tested by a professional hairdresser using a point scoring system and the results showed that Glossyliance significantly increases hair shine. As a result of its expertise in biotechnology, Soliance has created a plant-based solubiliser: Sophogreen. Sophogreen is produced from fully natural, locally produced raw materials as an alternative to petroleum-based solubilisers. Sophogreen is a solution containing a high concentration of sophorolipids. To produce Sophogreen, Soliance developed an industrial process based on biotechnologies. This process comprises three main steps: a phase of fermentation, a bioconversion phase and a purification phase. Sophogreen is the first locally sourced bio-solubiliser. The product is therefore easily available, its supply is secured, it is guaranteed GMO-free, palm-free and therefore performs better as a solubiliser. To meet new challenges like minimising the use of primary surfactants, generally anionic and respond to the ‘sulphate free’ trend, Soliance created Appygreen 812, a mild and ecological surfactant. Appygreen 812 is a plant-based formulation booster that improves cleaning and increases the viscosity and foam volume of formulations. The polar head of Appygreen 812 is obtained from non-digestible sugars from hemicellulose. Appygreen 812 allows formulators to produce sulphate-free formulas with remarkable foam volume and stability. By acting in synergy with the cleaning bases, with or without LES, it is the ideal green partner for rinse-off cosmetics.