BB Cream With SPF 40 Sun Protection

This BB cream formulation was designed to provide superior broad-spectrum (SPF/PFA <3) label SPF 40 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited-state quenching of Avobenzone and mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species-generating activities of the oxides to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB, Sensolene® and HallTress® DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. Eurol® BT contributes anti-aging, skin elasticizing, anti-oxidant and moisturizing properties. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~45 , PFA (PPD) ~21 performance with critical wavelength 382 nm.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
HallTress® DIBA Special1
Diisobutyl Adipate
HallStar
5.00
HallBrite® BHB1 *
Butyloctyl Salicylate
HallStar
5.00
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate]
5.00
SolaStay® S11*
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
HallStar
2.00
Sensolene®2 *
Ethylhexyl Olivate
HallStar Italia
2.00
B
Iron Oxide (black ) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
0.13
Iron Oxide (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
1.30
Iron Oxide (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
0.42
C
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Mz = 0.55 microns)
5.00
Ethylhexyl Triazone
1.15
D
VP/Eicosene Copolymer
1.00
HallStar® GMS Pure1
Glyceryl Stearate
HallStar
1.45
HallStar® PEG 4400 MS1
PEG-100 Stearate
HallStar
1.50
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
2.00
E
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]
2.50
F
Disodium EDTA
0.05
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade)
0.25
Water (Aqua) (deionized)
54.45
Glycerin
3.00
G
Eurol® BT2
Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water
HallStar Italia
0.50
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80
1.80
Cyclopentasiloxane
2.00
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
2.00
Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol
0.50

Preparation:

In a secondary vessel, combine A and start mixing. Add B to A. When AB is uniform, add C. Heat to 80°C, then add D. When ABCD is homogeneous, add E. Mix until fully dissolved. To the main vessel, add the Water and Glycerin of F and start mixing. Add the Disodium EDTA, then add the Xanthan Gum. Heat F to 75°C with continued mixing until homogeneous. When both phases are at their designated temperatures, slowly add ABCDE to F with prop mixing. Homogenize for 3 minutes. Start cooling batch with center stir (prop) mixing. At <50°C, add phase G items one by one with continued mixing. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until smooth.

Notes:

Properties (25°C) Appearance: Thick, light-brown lotion (cream) Viscosity (20 rpm, Brk, RV DV II, T-D, after 24 hours at room temperature, mPa∙s): 11,000–18,500 pH: 5.5– 6.0 *Patented and patent pending
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