Perfect DD Cream SPF 20

Croda Inc
This Daily Defence Cream, or DD Cream, protects against harmful light wavelengths whilst also offering a uniform tint on the skin. This is achieved through the inclusion of Solaveil™ XT40W which provides protection against UVA, UVB and High-Energy Visible light damage as well as protection against the free radicals generated. By combining this with Venuceane™, which protects against cellular damage by InfraRed and free radicals, you can achieve broad spectrum protection from the sun and its photo-ageing effects.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Crodamol™ GTCC
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid
Croda
13.00
Span™ 20
Sorbitan Laurate
Croda
3.04
Crodamol™ ISIS
Isostearyl Isostearate
Croda
3.00
Crodamol™ SSA
Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate
Croda
3.00
NatraGem™ E145
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqu
Croda
2.46
B
Water
Aqua
To 100
Pricerine™ 9091
Glycerin
Croda
3.00
Veegum Ultra
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Lake Chemicals and Minerals
1.00
Keltrol CG SFT
Xanthan Gum
CP Kelco
0.50
Solaveil™ XT-40W
Titanium Dioxide (and) Aqua (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane
Croda
15.00
C
NHS-C339001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77492
Miyoshi
0.96
NHS-C338001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77491
Miyoshi
0.24
NHS-C337001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77499
Miyoshi
0.06
D
Purac HiPure 90
Lactic Acid
Purac
qs
E
Venuceane™
Thermus Thermophilus Ferment (and) Glycerin
Sederma
3.00

Preparation:

Disperse the Veegum Ultra and Keltrol CG SFT in Pricerine 9091 and add water with stirring. Once fully hydrated add the Solaveil™ XT-40W with stirring. Combine the Phase A ingredients with stirring. Pre-blend Phase C with a pestle and mortar and add to Phase A with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise the oil phase for three minutes to disperse the pigments fully. Add Phase A to Phase B with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise for a further three minutes. Adjust the pH with lactic acid to below 4.5 whilst stirring and add the preservative Euxyl K172. Add the Venuceane and mix until homogenous.

Notes:

Appearance: Medium tan cream pH: 5.55 Viscosity: 6,520 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+) Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C In vivo SPF: 23 (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA), Label SPF 20 In vitro critical wavelength (FDA 2011 protocol, Croda): 380 nm In vitro UVAPF (COLIPA 2011 on no pigments formulation): 9, equivalent to PA+++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.55
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