Perfect DD Cream SPF 20

Croda Inc
This Daily Defence Cream, or DD Cream, protects against harmful light wavelengths whilst also offering a uniform tint on the skin. This is achieved through the inclusion of Solaveil™ XT40W which provides protection against UVA, UVB and High-Energy Visible light damage as well as protection against the free radicals generated. By combining this with Venuceane™, which protects against cellular damage by InfraRed and free radicals, you can achieve broad spectrum protection from the sun and its photo-ageing effects.
Phase
Product
INCI Name
Supplier
Volume
A
Crodamol™ GTCC
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid
Croda
13.00
Span™ 20
Sorbitan Laurate
Croda
3.04
Crodamol™ ISIS
Isostearyl Isostearate
Croda
3.00
Crodamol™ SSA
Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate
Croda
3.00
NatraGem™ E145
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqu
Croda
2.46
B
Water
Aqua
To 100
Pricerine™ 9091
Glycerin
Croda
3.00
Veegum Ultra
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Lake Chemicals and Minerals
1.00
Keltrol CG SFT
Xanthan Gum
CP Kelco
0.50
Solaveil™ XT-40W
Titanium Dioxide (and) Aqua (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane
Croda
15.00
C
NHS-C339001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77492
Miyoshi
0.96
NHS-C338001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77491
Miyoshi
0.24
NHS-C337001-10
Iron Oxide (and) CI77499
Miyoshi
0.06
D
Purac HiPure 90
Lactic Acid
Purac
qs
E
Venuceane™
Thermus Thermophilus Ferment (and) Glycerin
Sederma
3.00

Preparation:

Disperse the Veegum Ultra and Keltrol CG SFT in Pricerine 9091 and add water with stirring. Once fully hydrated add the Solaveil™ XT-40W with stirring. Combine the Phase A ingredients with stirring. Pre-blend Phase C with a pestle and mortar and add to Phase A with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise the oil phase for three minutes to disperse the pigments fully. Add Phase A to Phase B with stirring until homogenous. Homogenise for a further three minutes. Adjust the pH with lactic acid to below 4.5 whilst stirring and add the preservative Euxyl K172. Add the Venuceane and mix until homogenous.

Notes:

Appearance: Medium tan cream pH: 5.55 Viscosity: 6,520 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+) Stability: 3 months at 45°C, 40°C, 5°C and room temperature. 1 month at -5/40°C In vivo SPF: 23 (ISO 24444:2010, 5 subjects, AMA Laboratories, USA), Label SPF 20 In vitro critical wavelength (FDA 2011 protocol, Croda): 380 nm In vitro UVAPF (COLIPA 2011 on no pigments formulation): 9, equivalent to PA+++ Ratio SPF/UVAPF: 2.55
Disclaimer

While every effort has been made to reproduce these formulations correctly, the Publisher of this website cannot accept any liability for the information presented. All formulations are provided in good faith, but no warranty is given as to accuracy of information or results, or suitability for a particular use, nor is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. Formulations are offered solely for consideration by the participating manufacturers. Continued use of this web site infers acceptance of this disclaimer.

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