FEATURE ARTICLES

19. Dumont, C. Garcia, M. Puginier, C. Stoltz, R. Roso, H. Geoffroy,
20. Trouve, Y. Duccini, B. Brancq – Seppic, France
21. Khaiat – Seers Consulting, USA

Melanocytes, located in the suprabasal layer of epidermis, produce two types of melanin; i.e. brown-black eumelanin and red-yellow phaeomelanin, responsible for skin colouration. Melanin is also known to confer photoprotection on the skin. Each melanocyte is surrounded by 36 keratinocytes, forming a so-called epidermal-melanin unit. Melanin is produced in specialised intracellular melanocyte membrane-coated organelles that originate from the endoplasmic reticulum, i.e. the melanosomes. These organelles contain tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanogenesis. Indeed tyrosinase catalyses the conversion of L-tyrosine to dopaquinone, which is required for the synthesis of both melanin types. Melanosomes are further transferred to neighbouring keratinocytes which can then bring melanin to the different epidermal cell layers while differentiating and migrating to the epidermal surface.

Julie Towle – Phoenix Fragrances, UK

Natural perfumery materials are currently enjoying a revival, partly due to the renewed interest in aromatherapy, with many products containing essential oils for their therapeutic benefits.

In recent years the demand for natural fragrances has never been greater, although historically, of course, all perfumes were made using naturals. It was not until the end of the 19th Century that synthetics first began to be produced.

Karin Cucumel and Riad Domloge – ISP Global Skin Research Center, France

It has become evident that stress is one of the major characteristics of our modern life, and shown in much data is that stress has a direct effect on skin health and ageing.

Stress can come from pollution, weather conditions, cigarette smoke, radiation, heavy metals, and ultraviolet (UV) rays.

Reflecting the vibrancy and growth in the market for personal care and home care products in China will be a major event to be staged in Shanghai, pictured below, in March.

Personal Care & Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) will be held at the Shanghai Everbright Convention and Exhibition Center from 17 to 19 March.

Trevor Barker – Cornelius Group PLC, UK Mike Padgham – REACH Facilitation Company Ltd (ReFaC), UK

REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. It is the most onerous single piece of legislation to hit the European chemicals industry ever. Furthermore, this legislation’s far-reaching effect will have a major impact on the global chemical industry.

Anthony C. Dweck FLS FRSC FRSH – Technical Editor

The outlook for 2008 is not particularly promising as increasing legislation and marketing demands are faced by technical teams. Personal care sector formulators and manufacturers certainly need to be vigilant – on a number of fronts.

2. Auffray, C. Bernard, P. Racine and T. Roger – Robertet

Environmental protection is becoming a major preoccupation in most developed societies. A different lifestyle is gradually developing, based on a new understanding and more intelligent use of our natural resources. Sheltering under the umbrella terms of aromatherapy and aromachology, titles between which it is often difficult to differentiate, these sciences are destined for a positive future. The public is growing ever more demanding about efficiency and innocuousness in care products.

Michael Harmsworth – ESPA

Within our industry, it is often difficult to actually quantify what the consumer really thinks and understands about “naturals”. But before discussing their expectation of naturals, there is a need to discuss the consumer’s understanding of what a natural product actually is.

Pierre-Yves Morvan and Romuald Vallee – Codif International, France

The ageing process starts from the age of 20 when our cells produce fewer proteins.

Skin ageing is characterised in three ways:

• By a decrease in the thickness, firmness and elasticity of skin promoting wrinkles.

• By the unsightly effect of skin microcirculation in the form of spider veins on the legs or dark circles on the face around the eyes.

• By a reduction in the antioxidant capacities with, in particular, lower protection against UV.

Maria Theresa Luna-Lumain – DSM Nutritional Products, Singapore

Milk has been part of women’s beauty regimen since ancient times. Bathing in milk helped them keep their skin beautiful and young-looking. However, skin ages with time and with it comes the obvious effects such as dry skin and the appearance of wrinkles. Traditional methods to combat skin ageing include sound sleep, balanced diet and the application of moisturising and cosmetic products. However, modern approaches involve the regenerative biological stimulation of the tissue underneath the wrinkled skin. Peptides have gained popularity as anti-ageing actives in the personal care market today. This article discusses how a unique natural peptide mixture was developed and how it delivers the anti-ageing efficacy that it promises.

Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle techniques have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. Now, a new solution derived from my own research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. The plant extract spilanthes acmella offers key benefits for the next generation of anti-age applications. In particular, it exhibits powerful activity in stimulating, reorganising and strengthening the collagen network.

Ute Griesbach – Cognis, Germany

Consumer environmentalism is here to stay, but people’s concerns and their effect on purchasing behaviour vary enormously. The environment first became an issue of public concern in Northern Europe in the 1970s, when the realisation dawned that the world’s oil reserves would not last forever. People also started to worry about pollution, as the media covered stories such as smog, hormones in meat, glycol in wine, and the effects of pesticides and fertilisers. This resulted in the start of the organic farming movement, and a return to less intensive methods of rearing livestock. For the first time, people started to take an interest in how their food was produced, although there was little change in the purchasing habits of the average consumer.

Jobiah J Sabelko, Tammy W Gaffney, Akiko 0kawa – Nalco Company

During the last 25 years, hair care products have advanced from singularly functional (cleansing, conditioning, styling or colouring) in the 1980s and multifunctional in the 1990s (two-in-one shampoo and conditioner), to the specifically targeted multifunctional products of today.

Miyuki Fujishiro, Yasunobu Ochiai, Yuji Eda, Yuri Okano, Hitoshi Masaki – Nikkol Group, Tokyo, Japan

Described in this article is how a novel vitamin B6 derivative, Pyridoxine Tris- Hexyldecanoate (VB6-IP), improves skin hydration by stimulating filaggrin expression and increasing NMF synthesis.

Wen Schroeder – SEKI Cosmeticals, USA

The use of perfume is as old as human history. In fact, the word “perfume” derives from the Latin, meaning “through smoke”, because it was customary to burn natural salves, herbs and oils to produce incense for religious rituals. As well as by Romans, the use of perfume has been recorded by almost every ancient civilisation, including the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Arabs.

Anthony C. Dweck FRSC FRSH FLS Technical Editor

It is understandable that a company should want its products to be as attractive and enticing to the consumer as possible, but it would seem that there are some manufacturers who are prepared to take their chances and go over the strict barriers and guidelines that are clearly defined by law. There is also a trend to tell us what a particular formula does not contain and by so doing imply that the product is safer, but nothing could be further from the truth.

Nicholas Marshall – Managing Editor

The latest thinking about the role of water in cosmetic formulations was presented and debated at the IFSCC Conference 2007, held recently in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

The vibrancy and growth currently being experienced in the personal care sector in India will be clearly reflected at the forthcoming in-cosmetics India.

Taking place on 20 and 21 November 2007 at the Bandra Kurla Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, and organised by Reed Exhibitions, in-cosmetics India (formerly PCHi) is shaping up to follow the huge success of 2006. For the 2006 Mumbai show, the Reed Exhibitions team was decidedly in the right place at the right time to help exhibitors and visitors alike make the most of rapid growth in the personal care industry.

Alain Khaiat – Seers Consulting, USA Shoshana (Malis) Arad – Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, Israel Ram Snir – Frutarom, Israel

Survival of red microalga cells in the extreme conditions of the ocean tidal zone while subjected to a wide range of harsh conditions, such as overexposure to and constant changes in UV, pH, temperature, hydration and salinity, is attributed to the protective polysaccharide (PS) synthesised in the cells and creating an active shield around them.

In a number of studies the PS has demonstrated a wide range of biological activities, including anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-oxidant, UV absorbance and bio-lubricant properties, explaining in part its protective effect on the algae cells, as well as protection of the human skin. Over 20 years of research have resulted in an innovative patented growth process.

3. Lenaers, G. Bon, J. Dorothyn, C. Quenel, B. Closs – Silab, France.

Three targets for a high anti-cellulite action – fat storage, inflammation, and adipose tissue degradation – are among specifics focused on in this article. Cellulite frequently affects women, and is indicated on particular areas of the body such as the buttocks and thighs by a padded appearance of the skin, more familiarly known as orange peel effect.