New options in optimising sun care performance

This paper demonstrates the options to create stable, mild formulations with high SPF values and high UVA protection ratings through the minimal use of emulsifiers. For longer-lasting sun protection performance, this paper will also focus on achieving excellent water resistance through breathable film-forming technology.

With the increasing awareness of the need for sun protection, sunscreen products are being given more serious attention. The market for sun care products is also growing attractively. By 2014, the global sun care market is projected to reach $7,911 million. Sun protection, as the largest segment of the global sun care market, accounts for 65.4% of the market’s total value.1 Sun exposure normally results in skin dryness and ageing, thus in Europe and Asia, most of the product launches claimed skin hydration. More than 40% of product launches in these areas are for daily use wherein skin hydration is a key benefit consumers are seeking. In Asia, where maintaining a lighter skin is preferred, sun protection against the skin darkening effect of sunlight is critical. Consumers need to be assured that through the use of proper sunscreen, lighter skin can be maintained and enhanced. There are a lot of sun care products on the market, but consumers are still looking for new products that deliver the performance and aesthetics that they desire, such as excellent stability, mildness, unique sensory, high/broad SPF, water resistance, ease of use, multi-functionality, etc. With this long list of consumer needs, the demands for quick-to-market, costeffective products and the pressures from regulatory institutions, designing formulations that meet these requirements is a challenge that every sun care product formulator is facing. In the sun care market, there are four key segments: sun protection, after sun, water resistance and self-tanning. Sun protection is the largest segment. To achieve high/broad SPF values in formulation, high levels of organic sunscreens are typically used which provide stability challenges. Therefore formulating options are limited to viscous creams and lotions that exhibit heavy sensory properties and are difficult to spread on the skin. Consumers are interested in different thin or sprayable platforms with lighter sensory without sacrificing performances. Creating stable, convenient spray formulations with low viscosity requires high levels of emulsifiers that seek to mitigate the heavy sensory brought by the high levels of organic sunscreens. High levels of emulsifiers may also create sensitivity issues and enhance the penetration of sunscreen actives into the skin. In addition, when a traditional spray formulation is used, the liquid droplets may drip quickly, thus defeating the purpose of convenience in use. It is important to consumers to control the dripping speed and the consistency of coverage. In this study, we will show how the use of a polymeric emulsifier such as acrylates/ C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer offers excellent emulsification and stability performance in low viscosity sun care formulations such as lotions and sprays, while offering a refreshing initial sensory and mildness. Cost, ease of production, aesthetics and performance are important parameters to consider when developing water-resistant formulations. In this study, we focus on enhancing water-resistance through the use of an easy-to-use liquid water dispersible film-former to help deliver longer-lasting sun protection while providing lighter sensory and SPF boosting.

Methodology