Natural origin O/W emulsifier without soaping effect

One of the major challenges facing these emulsions is reconciling perfect stability with an elegant sensory profile. On the one hand, vegetable oils are difficult to emulsify, on the other hand, natural origin polymers are less effective stabilisers than their synthetic counterparts, thus impeding faultless performance of the emulsifier. Natural origin emulsifiers that perform well with vegetable oils are already available on the market, for instance. However, they are usually sensitive to the presence of electrolytes or stressful active ingredients rich in electrolytes that affect both the viscosity and stability of the emulsion. As far as sensory properties are concerned, vegetable oils used at high doses, particularly when combined with natural stabilising gums, cause a very unpleasant soaping effect when applied on the skin. This whitening effect, which is more or less rapid and intense depending on the formulation, skin type and atmospheric conditions, is particularly visible in body emulsions designed to be applied on large surface areas. This soaping effect is visible in varying degrees with natural emulsifiers frequently used in cosmetics, in particular in creams where the required viscosity is obtained thanks to the combination of these green emulsifiers with fatty alcohols (well known for their capacity to provide consistency). The addition of silicone oil phases generally resolves the problem in conventional emulsions but is obviously not appropriate for natural emulsions. Simulgreen 18-2 is a new, oil-in-water emulsifying structure that is both simple and effective. It offers an environmentally friendly design, versatile emulsifying power and unprecedented sensory profile, for both women and men. Other benefits of the product include its improved resistance with respect to electrolyte-rich stress-inducing active ingredients and its continuous, all-day-long moisturising properties.

 Environmentally-friendly design

Simulgreen 18-2 is manufactured using renewable ingredients of plant origin, according to a process meeting green chemistry standards, no solvent or preservatives are used and the process produces minimum waste of around 4%. Stemming from alkylpolyglucosides, the hydrophilic part derives from wheat glucose. Simulgreen 18-2 is original as it contains a castor oil derivative as the lipophilic part. Its diol structure enhances the hydrophilic nature of the alky glucoside (Fig. 1) and is the reason behind its new application properties.