Rejuvenating amino peptide fights skin ageing

A new derivative, ATP 23 (INCI name: Azeloyl Tetrapeptide 23), developed by Sinerga Research Laboratories, is to be put into a new context and revealed as one of the most innovative anti-ageing ingredients derived from a peptide, with anti glycation and antioxidant effects. From a chemical perspective it has been obtained via the reaction between azelaic acid and tetrapeptide 23, a synthetic peptide containing two moles of alanine and hystidine. In fact azeloyl tetrapeptide 23 is the first “cosmetic peptide” that blocks glycation and, consequently, the skin’s ageing processes. The lipophilic carrier enhances antioxidant activity of the peptide, intended to inhibit Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs) of dermal proteins and to renew skin cells. It is recommended for aged skin, to prevent expression wrinkles and to regenerate the skin barrier.

Method of activity

It is well known that some physiological processes, such as glycation and cell oxidation, are considered to be the main causes of skin ageing. Glycation induces degradation of the skin tissues, damaging dermal fibres: glucose is linked to the supporting proteins, collagen and elastin, inducing significant alterations to their structure and a complex together to successive reactions that create the so-called AGE products (Advanced Glycation End products). AGEs form molecular bridges with dermal proteins determining a complete disorganisation of the tissue. Azeloyl tetrapeptide 23 mechanism of action should be considered as antagonist “bait” in the glycation process: in the preliminary steps it reacts with sugar molecules, avoiding their fixing to collagen and elastin, countering the loss of elasticity and viscosity. It blocks ionic exchanges between amino acids and protein chains. Skin ageing is, in fact, affected by the formation of agglomerates of glycated proteins, that become rigid, inflexible and aged. The presence of dicarboxylic medium chain acid is useful to “bridge” collagen increasing its motility and elasticity. The final effect is to slow down skin ageing signs. The anti-glycation activity of Azeloyl tetrapeptide 23 has been evaluated based on its capacity to avoid the formation of glycosylated proteins, and in particular of collagen (Fig. 1).