Protection against stress by natural triterpene esters

Shea butter triterpene esters, comprising cinnamic and acetic acid esters of lupeol and butyrospermol, demonstrate potent protease inhibiting and anti-inflammatory properties. These are properties of high value for caring cosmetics offering protection against premature skin ageing and treatment of mature skin.

Environmental stress and the human skin

The human skin, being the outermost shield protecting the body against various environmental conditions, responds to stress conditions by a series of inflammatory reactions aiming at tissue repair and regained homeostasis. The inflammation can be induced by injurious agents, chemical irritants, toxins, pathogens, burns, UV exposure etc. The condition is often caused by the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) followed by the biosynthesis of inflammatory mediators such as the leucotrienes and prostaglandins. Aged skin is characterised not only by a decreased thickness and increased sensitivity but also by a lower capability to manage the inflammatory reactions and show typically a low but constant inflammatory status. The chronic inflammation further increases the breakdown of the skin collagen and elastin protein structures and results in a thinner, less elastic and wrinkled skin. Consequently, protection against premature ageing as well as treatment of sensitive and aged skin is of high priority for personal care formulations. Natural triterpenes are today well-researched for their bioactivity and show potential not only within the pharmaceutical industry but are also identified as potential new and valuable skin care ingredients.