Cosmetics industry flocks to Milan

This year’s show saw Milan’s Fiera Milano Rho exhibition hall full to capacity with 6,8501 professionals looking to source the newest products and latest developments from the world’s cosmetics and personal care industry. With a third of these visiting from Italy, the annual show was undoubtedly a hot topic within the Italian beauty industry. During the three day event from 29-31 March, 560 local and international exhibitors welcomed crowds of visitors, making this year’s event by far the largest attended outside the flagship show in Paris. Stand space was pushed to 10,987 m2, making the event the biggest in the show’s history. Alongside a host of key industry players, in-cosmetics also provided a platform for over 70 first-time exhibitors looking to launch their products to the visitors at the show.

Products

Among the many ingredients on display in Milan, Lipotec was promoting its product, Hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with high water retaining capacity which provides a long-lasting moisturising effect and immediate wrinkle reduction. Hyadisine is an exopolysaccharide achieved by optimised bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez, in Brittany, which is rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronic. The high water retaining capacity of Hyadisine offers excellent longlasting moisturising and immediate antiwrinkle effect to anti-ageing skin care formulations, reducing lines in only two hours. This year in Milan, Greentech launched a new active, Setiline, with a global effect against ageing. It acts simultaneously and significantly in vitro against glycation into dermis and skin keratinisation into epidermis. Thus, this anti-ageing active allows the skin to maintain suppleness, firmness and elasticity. Setiline also has a smoothing and anti-wrinkle effect. Tests on volunteers show a decrease in wrinkles of around 10% among 67% of volunteers. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques launched the natural complex, Sanicapyl. This active ingredient helps to rebalance the scalp to overcome dandruff conditions, while beautifying the hair. The new active ingredient was shown to exert a moisturising as well as an anti-inflammatory activity (in vitro tests). Clinical studies highlighted its capability in helping to reduce itching sensations and to regulate the production of sebum, which may contribute to an overall scalp soothing effect. In addition, it has proven anti-dandruff properties: in clinical tests, a shampoo containing 1% of Sanicapyl was shown to reduce dandruff just as effectively as a shampoo containing 1% of a benchmark active ingredient. Further tests confirmed that Sanicapyl had significant antimicrobial properties on Malassezia furfur and Malassezia globosa. Lubrizol unveiled its new Sensomer CT polymers (INCI: Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) from the ayurvedic plant, cassia, offering improved deposition, distinctive sensory and enhanced conditioning in hair cleansing formulations. Many consumers seek hair care products that claim the use of natural or naturally derived ingredients to make hair look and feel healthy. Demographic changes in age, ethnicity and affluence as well as the increasing use of hair colour, styling products and shampoos have presented formulators with the challenge of developing hair care products capable of delivering enhanced conditioning to a diverse range of hair types. Designed to meet the needs of a wide variety of hair types, Sensomer CT polymers are more efficient silicone deposition aids than traditional cationic conditioning polymers. This enables the use of lower levels of silicone and cationic polymer to deliver equivalent or better overall conditioning performance. Sensory panel testing shows that shampoo formulations based on Sensomer CT polymers outperform formulations based on cationic guar and polyquaternium-10, with regard to comb force reduction and feel in both the wet and dry states. Codif was generating a great deal of interest in their Pink Pepperslim product, which is a slimming oil of Brazilian pepper with powerful lipolytic properties. Pink Pepperslim stops the transformation of small lipid droplets into larger ones and decreases the cellular protection of fats storage. These preliminary actions strengthen its lipolytic activity to release up to +1000% of fatty acids. This fat burning action is completed by an activation of microcirculation, thus favouring the elimination of wastes. This spicy concentrated slimming oil handles adipocytes to stimulate centimetric losses on waist, hips and thighs for women and on the stomachs for men.