Complete platform of moisturising proteins

Croda was the first to develop quaternised protein derivatives with the launch of Crotein Q in 1976, the first to produce amino acid complexes with the launch of silk and collagen amino acids in 1978 and the first to develop wheat based proteins in 1985. In more recent years Croda has led the way in the development of high performance protein copolymers to deliver outstanding performance in areas such as strengthening and protection and repair. Proteins continue to be highly popular cosmetic ingredients, providing functional effectiveness, consumer perceivable benefits and a point of difference. Over the last 40 years, Croda has provided solutions for a range of hair care needs using its proteins technology. One of the main issues for hair care is moisture regulation. Hair is exposed to a variety of changing conditions throughout the day; the relative humidity of the environment alters on a regular basis and so do the levels of moisture in the hair. The quantity of moisture in the hair plays a vital role in both the physical and chemical properties. Being able to regulate moisture content at an optimal value is therefore a valuable function of hair care products. This is true for so-called “normal” hair and even more true for hair that has been subject to practices that damage the hair such as blow drying, straightening and bleaching. Moisture control is required to improve texture and plasticity at low relative humidity, which will increase the resistance to fibre breakage, and to prevent hair becoming limp at high relative humidity in order to maintain shape. Croda has developed a suite of methods to assess moisture and offers a complete platform of hair moisturisation proteins supported by a wide variety of claims substantiation data.

Cropeptide W: moisture manager

The combination of wheat peptides and oligosaccharides that make up Cropeptide W (now referred to as ‘the moisture manager’) impart moisture retentive properties which are demonstrated by the moisture isotherm shown in Figure 1. The moisture isotherm is a method of assessing the water binding characteristics of a protein and, in this case, shows that the moisture manager binds 10% of its own weight at only 20% relative humidity and almost 50% at higher humidities. Hair with reduced moisture content becomes noticeably dull and brittle, lacking its normal elasticity. Under these circumstances the hygroscopic oligosaccharides and peptides in the moisture manager help to restore the hair’s critical moisture level, improving feel, softness and handling characteristics. The unique combination of film forming and moisturising components in the moisture manager enables it to control the moisture content of normal and chemically damaged hair, minimising the effects of extreme environmental conditions. A study was conducted to evaluate the effect of 1% active moisture manager on hair moisture content when applied to virgin hair from both leave-on and rinse-off treatments. Using dynamic vapour sorption, the hair moisture isotherm and the rate of approach of equilibrium moisture content at different relative humidity was measured. Values were measured by increasing and then reducing the relative humidity in steps of 0%-20%, 20%-40%, 40%-60%, 60%-80% and 80%-95%. Small differences in the equilibrium moisture isotherms for treated and untreated hair were observed but, of more significance, the rate at which equilibrium was approached was significantly affected. Hair treated with the moisture manager showed a slower rate of moisture uptake at high relative humidities and a lower rate of moisture loss on reducing the relative humidity.