Asian mascara trends analysed

 In fact, robust mascara sales may supplant the lipstick index, popularised by Leonard Lauder, as the new inverse economic indicator. Mascara sales growth in the region has outpaced lipstick during the downturn period. Companies have responded with accelerated launch activity throughout 2009 and the first half of 2010. Global powerhouses L’Oréal, P&G, Avon and Estée Lauder have all increased market penetration through packaging and formulation innovation. Packaging innovation has fuelled growth in the Pacific Rim mascara segment. New brushes designed specifically for Asian eyes are featured on advertising collateral and by packaging the brush separately from the barrel. L’Oréal, the world leader in mascara sales, has strengthened its position in the Asian prestige and mass arenas with multiple offerings. Under its prestige brand, Lancôme, is the popular Hypnose mascara with its Powerful brush that claims it has 1,000 sensor bristles to increase volume up to six times. Also by Lancôme, Virtuous Mascara offers a curved lash to meet regional desires. It claims it has a patented curved brush to provide results previously only achieved by mechanical curlers. In the mass arena, L’Oréal has launched Maybelline Volume Express, The Magnum Waterproof Mascara. This brush has a spoon-shaped mega brush that it claims extends lashes up to nine times. P&G, one of the first companies to fully capitalise on the advantages of moulded brush technology, has introduced its highly successful Cover Girl Lash Blast mascara to the Australian and New Zealand market place. When compared to conventional twisted wire brushes it is easy to see that this technology provides a more uniform number and spacing of bristles. The patented brush claims to maximise every lash to create the ultimate big lash look. Avon, another early adopter of molded brush technology has launched a special edition Super Shock Mascara in China with animal print packaging to celebrate the Year of the Tiger. The product claims to increase the volume of lashes by 12 times. Also from Avon is Super Curlacious featuring a molded elastic brush from Geka which claims to create a lasting curl for every lash. Sumptuous Bold Volume Lifting Mascara from Estée Lauder addresses both volumising and curl with its twisted wire brush comber applicator that claims to define like a comb while plumping and curling lashes 360 degrees. Lauder’s Clinique brand has launched Lash Power Volume in Japan this year. With a petite brush, the mascara both separates and thickens. Bobbi Brown, also owned by Estée Lauder, has released Extreme Party mascara with a brush designed to coat even tiniest of Asian lashes. Local brand Shiseido’s Majolica Majorca Lash Bone includes a bent comb it claims helps layer its waterproof formula and maintain curl. Kose also employs a styling comb in their Fasio brand’s Hyper Stay Deep Trick Curl long mascara. The “perfect capture comb” is claimed to aid in the alignment of fibres to the lashes.

Battery powered technology

Mascara packaging innovation has not been limited to new brush designs in the hot Asian market. Perhaps taking a cue from battery powered shavers and toothbrushes, cosmetic companies are beginning to add electrically powered features to mascara products. The Korean company, Amore Pacific, introduced Magic Curl Heating Mascara. This two-part product consists of a mascara with conventional brush to be applied to lashes first. On the other end of the barrel is a heated element which it claims curls the lash. The system, used together, claims to reduce clumping and improve the curling effect of the mascara. Estée Lauder and L’Oréal have battery powered mascaras. Both companies, having enjoyed success in North America with these mascaras, have rolled out throughout the Asia Pacific region. Both companies’ products contain a tiny motor in the cap assembly which moves the rod to the brush tip. Estée Lauder’s first-to-market Turbo Lash Mascara turns on automatically when the cap is removed from the barrel. Lancôme Oscillations Mascara is turned on and off with a small button on the cap. Both tout improved application with less clumping and better separation. The motorised brush appears to help the mascara formula release from the brush more easily and to pull apart stuck-together lashes. L’Oréal has also begun to introduce a mass version, Maybeline Pulse Perfection Mascara, to select markets in the region.