Light manipulation particles offer anti-ageing benefits

Skin’s natural pigments are principally composed of three molecules: melanin, haemoglobin and collagen. As a person ages, the appearance of ageing is influenced by inconsistencies in the patterns of these three pigments as they reflect back out through the transparent stratum corneum to the eye of the observer. Historically, cosmetic formulations have tried to influence these colours through a covering effect, typically done with opaque, coloured particles that lay down on the surface of the skin and attempt to mask the skin’s natural pigments. However, the typical downside of such colouring attempts is that the skin loses a sense of depth and translucency that are indicative of naturally healthy skin. To the observer, a person wearing decorative foundation has skin that appears somewhat flat and twodimensional. Our company has developed a new skin tone control technology that works to enhance the skin’s natural pigmentation and control signs of ageing. Anti-ageing continues to be a major trend in the personal care industry. Some of the reasons this trend continues to exist are due to the maturing baby-boomer generation and general negative feelings surrounding ageing. The conventional ways of combating ageing have involved the use of long-term actives that can take 4-12 weeks to provide visible results. The emergence of a new generation of consumers seeking immediate effects has led to the latest marketing developments in anti-ageing and skin tone control. Over the past few years the market has been inundated with a variety of products delivering instant effects such as colouradjusting foundations that match an array of skin tones, self-tanning and whitening products that help to alter skin complexion through opaque coverage, and soft focus effects that minimise skin imperfections. The shortfall of these techniques is that the true skin tone and colour is masked. With today’s trends focusing on innate beauty, we felt there had to be a better way to control skin tone without covering up the natural radiance of the skin. When light hits skin it typically transmits 5 mm below the surface into the lower epidermal and dermal layers. As the reflected light travels back toward an observer’s eye, it is modified by the three natural pigments found in the skin: collagen, melanin, and hemoglobin. Each pigment reflects light at different wavelengths. Melanin reflects light in brown and yellow wavelengths. Haemoglobin reflects light in red and blue wavelengths and collagen reflects light in green and yellow wavelengths. The combination of these three components is responsible for the various skin pigmentations seen throughout the world. Skin radiance is an observation of what is occurring below the skin’s surface and internal health. As a person ages, the appearance of ageing is influenced by inconsistencies in the patterns of these three pigments as they reflect back out through the transparent stratum corneum to the eye of the observer. Collagen breakdown causes yellowing or “sallowing” of the skin. Oxidation of haemoglobin makes bilirubin, a dark pigmented byproduct. And accumulation of melanin in uneven areas causes age spots and hyperpigmentation. Enhancing skin radiance is a challenge that even master artists confronted when painting face portraits. Artists struggled to find ways to reproduce the life-like qualities found in collagen, haemoglobin, and melanin. They were able to overcome this challenge using Maroger’s Medium. Known as one of the best kept secrets and techniques of master painters, this medium is a clear resinous material used to create intense light patterns and dark shadows within a portrait imparting realistic qualities with depth. Often described as “liquid glass”, the medium is blended with pigments to create a sculptured, life-like canvas with luminescent and translucent properties. Similar to master painters, makeup artists use cosmetic formulations to alter the skin’s pigmentation and features through lightening and darkening techniques. They are challenged to correct and beautify the skin’s appearance without losing its sense of depth and life-like qualities.

Microlens technology concept

Inspired by art, we developed a patented optical microlens techonology as a new way of influencing skin ageing through skin tone control. Optical microlenses are light controlling spherical powders that diffuse light below the skin’s surface, manipulating the natural pigments of the skin in such a way that skin imperfections are minimised. Based on clear particle technology that allows light to transmit through the lens, the clear coating on the outside of the sphere changes the angle at which light enters the microlens. As a result, the focal point is shifted from the outer edge of the microlens into the centre, thus distorting the image captured by a viewer. The modified image gives the illusion of a smoother skin surface and obscures imperfections. The clarity of optical microlenses can be observed viewing the spheres under a microscope. The image of the light filament in the bottom of the microscope can be seen as demonstrated in Figure 4.