New legal regulations and growing competition in the market of cosmetic products demand more and more tests in the field of bioengineering. R&D departments are looking out for bioengineering methods which are non-invasive, objective, sensitive and reproducible.
Skin analysis techniques have significantly advanced and technology now allows multiple measurements to be conducted and real-time quantitative values calculated. Such testing can be reproduced in laboratories worldwide. For higher reproducibility, it is important to standardise the test protocol and documentation. For this reason, in 1993, EEMCO (European Group on Efficacy Measurement of Cosmetics and other Topical Products) was founded in order to create guidelines for tests such as the one for the assessment of Trans Epidermal Water Loss in cosmetic sciences. Summing up, it can be said that it is important that the user knows the main technological aspects of the analysis methods and the biological aspects. It can be very useful to combine different methods and measurements to enhance the validity of the interpretation of data. The different measurement parameters could be influenced by each other. In most studies, tests are performed under controlled conditions. The selected technology should be renowned and established.
Moisture content
The most important of these parameters is the skin surface moisture content. This parameter describes the water content in the upper layers of the stratum corneum that are no more supplied with nutrients from the deeper skin. The most frequently used and sophisticated tool for such measurement is the Corneometer® (CM 825). This capacitance measurement tool was orginally developed 20 years ago and has been the standard measurement for skin moisture determination ever since. It is also well established in literature. The Corneometer® probe ensures a small measurement penetration depth of max 40 ?m with the main measurement taking place in the upper 10 ?m, so that it really measures only the upper layers of the stratum corneum and not the well-moisturised deeper parts of the skin. This was tested with in vitro methods. The measurement time is very short to prevent occlusion of the skin and the probe works with a steady and low pressure so as to not press against the skin too strongly during the measurement. The measurement is only very slightly influenced by salts on the skin.
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