Innovative solutions for ethnic colour cosmetics

Skin with dark complexion, from a cosmetic formulator’s perspective, can be considered as Skin Types IV-VI according to the Fitzpatrick Skin Type classification developed in 1975. The Fitzpatrick Skin Type classification ranges from Type 1 for white and light skin to Type VI for black and dark colour skin based on a person’s complexion and responses to sun exposure. The cosmetic formulator’s challenges for applications for Types IV-VI skin are concerned with the development of hyper-pigmentation or hypopigmentation. 1 Additionally, dark skin types can often develop a grey, ashy appearance to the skin when the skin is dry. Formulations that leave any residue are not especially acceptable for ethnic groups because the residue can often create a distinct imperfection or dullness to dark skin tone. Effect pigments are relatively transparent and thus allow the skin tone on which they are applied to show through. It has been demonstrated in our study that colours generated by effect pigments are clearly dependent on the background.2 The colour effect for ethnic skin is enhanced by the reflection colour of the effect pigment due to the dark background. The transmitted light through transparent effect pigments modifies the skin tones. Incorporating effect pigments in cosmetic and personal care formulations can enhance or modify ethnic skin tone and can provide contrasting effects.

Methodology

The method of measurement, and cosmetic formulations for colour and appearance of ethnic groups allowing for the interactions among colour cosmetic formulations and ethnic skin tones, are described below.