Formulating for a consumer-perceivable difference

Skin whitening actives such as alphaarbutin, kojic acid, and vitamin C have been available for a number of years, and novel compositions are continuously introduced.

The performance of these skin-whitening actives is usually well demonstrated in vitro and to a lesser extent in vivo. However, such evaluations focus on the active ingredient and are still far from the final formulations that will be selected by consumers. A formulation must have the right balance between perceived immediate or short-term efficacy and appealing sensory and texture attributes in order to convey a distinctive experience to consumers.

What do consumers look for?

The many facets of this experience begin the moment consumers identify a product. They react to the package, the buying experience, the product’s fragrance, its initial application and the lasting impression after hours of use. Above all, they expect immediate and lasting results, often from several perspectives. They expect results to be visible and vital, to look and feel their best at any age. Prevention and protection also are important for minimising additional damage, and some consumers have needs that require targeted active ingredients that can correct or repair. Because they are so widely used, skin-whitening products can be a versatile starting point for providing additional health and beauty solutions. With the help of high-performance specialty silicones and innovative formulating approaches, skin-whitening products can provide multifunctional benefits as well as a unique sensory experience. In China, one third of facial creams claim skin whitening, and these claims also are beginning to appear on body care, eye care and sun care products. Based in part on the need for convenience among Chinese working women, some product labels contain a combination of skin-whitening and anti-ageing claims.

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