BASF has taken the wraps off VitaGuard A, a solid lipid encapsulation technology to stabilize retinol in cosmetic formulations.
Retinol is a powerful anti-ageing molecule yet it can also cause skin irritation and is prone to light and air degradation, making it difficult to be widely utilized by formulators.
VitaGuard A was developed using patented solid lipid particles, protecting retinol from degradation, limiting skin irritation and allowing better skin bioavailability for improved cosmetic efficacy.
Several in vitro and ex vivo studies conducted by BASF have shown VitaGuard A improves retinol stability in cosmetic formulations compared to non-encapsulated retinol, enhance skin bioavailability and prevent retinol-induced irritation.
Additionally, it clinically improves the forehead wrinkles appearance, skin elasticity and skin tone evenness to connect with retinol’s attractive nature as an anti-ageing molecule.
In a randomized, full-face, double-blind clinical study on Chinese volunteers, VitaGuard A as a cream was evaluated at 2% (equivalent to 0.1% retinol) on its effectiveness as an anti-ageing molecule compared to non-encapsulated retinol at 0.1%.
The results concluded that it significantly showed an anti-wrinkle effect on forehead wrinkle appearance compared to baseline (D0).
After eight weeks, forehead wrinkle volume was reduced by 37% (p<0.01). While assessing skin elasticity improvement, compared to baseline, VitaGuard A showed significant increase in skin elasticity versus D0 (+16%, p<0.001).
Moreover, skin tone evenness was notably improved, showing a variation of 15% compared to the baseline measurements obtained (p<0.001).
All these parameters were found to be directionally better versus the same formulation containing non-encapsulated retinol at the same dose of 0.1%.
