Givaudan explores its patchouli leaf active that restores sebum production, skin barrier function and hydration in the scalp
Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) is highly prized for use in perfumery due to its woody and earthy scent with tobacco inflexions and camphor facets. To develop Patchoul’Up™, hereafter the patchouli leaf active, Givaudan Active Beauty employed clean extraction processes on patchouli leaves that had already been distillated to extract essential oils for the fragrance industry
The distillated leaves are dried and re-valorised (‘upcycled’), and subcritical water extraction (SWE) is employed to induce selective fractionation of the active compounds oligosaccharides and proteoglycans. SWE is a process that augments the extraction potency of water.
At the subcritical state, the water’s physicochemical parameters are modified to give a higher solubility power and apolarity, delivering a unique profile and a higher yield.
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