Retinol and structurally related molecules of the group of retinoids are well-known for their strong anti-aging effects and their use in the treatment of acne. However, most retinoids are not stable in formulations and the treatment with retinoids can lead to side effects, such as dry skin, photosensitivity, and redness, limiting the chronic therapeutic application and largely preventing the use in cosmetics.
NovoRetin™ is a plant-based active ingredient that can increase naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin and thereby induce retinol-like effects without the need to apply retinoids topically on the skin.
Boosting naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin
Retinoic acid is the most active metabolite of retinol and is therefore responsible for the effects of retinol on the skin. As retinoic acid plays an important role in the maintenance of the skin, it also occurs naturally in skin cells, where it is degraded by cytochrome P450 family 26 (CYP26) enzymes. By inhibiting CYP26 enzymes, it is possible to increase the levels of endogenous retinoic acid and achieve retinol-like effects. CYP26 inhibitors, such as talarozole, are therefore under pharmaceutical investigation as potential anti-acne drugs. NovoRetinTM serves as a plant-based CYP26 inhibitor. As demonstrated in in vitro studies, it significantly decreases the activity and gene expression of CYP26A1, a CYP26 isoform present in the skin. Tested in a 3D epidermis model, NovoRetinTM increased the expression of involucrin, a marker of retinoic acid activity, to a similar extent as the CYP26 inhibitor talarozole. Thus, by preventing the degradation of retinoic acid in the skin, NovoRetinTM leads to beneficial effects similar to the ones known from retinol applications.
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